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dbt101
Nov 8, 2004, 4:53 AM
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Im planning a road trip for this summer and i was woundering where there are some good multi pitch sport routes. Were planning on going through California and would really like to spend some time out there. We will also be in New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming... Anything below 12ab would be great.
Thanks,
Andrew
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roughster
Nov 8, 2004, 5:33 AM
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If you mean summer of 2005, there should be a new area for you to check out in NorCal. While the info is not quite public yet, by then it will be, plus we should have added a bunch other MPs for everyone to climb.
Two photo's from this weekend. The climb is Aloha Patrol 5.11b (yeah right :lol:) 4 pitches (1-10d/11a, 2-10b, 3-11b+ (heheh), 4- 10b). There are other MPs already established, and another should go down this weekend :)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=43191
Pitch 3 (crux pitch) and yeah, it's got the steeps :)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=43192
Pitch 4 (affectionately called the "Bad Joke" pitch). Just when you think it's over, it isn't!
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alpinerockfiend
Nov 8, 2004, 6:05 AM
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Check out the City of Rocks and Castle Rocks areas, both in southern Idaho. Both (more so at Castle Rocks) have lots to offer to the multipitch sport climber.
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maculated
Nov 8, 2004, 6:36 AM
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Dude, what is Dave doing? Flapping??
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roughster
Nov 8, 2004, 6:49 AM
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In reply to: Dude, what is Dave doing? Flapping??
Attempting to de-pump before the final crux moves. LOL, in the next few moves he did an all out all points off dyno that he somehow stuck which was desperate. Its funny though, his arm kinda looks like a club arm or something in the pic hehe.
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caughtinside
Nov 8, 2004, 5:15 PM
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heh heh. There was a little hamming it up for the camera in a couple of those shots! 8^)
I was pumped silly at the '.11b' crux, and the photographer shouted at me to do one of those euro moves where you chalk up and blow the excess off your fingers, with a big puff. Very silly.
But hey, I was in a good move, and willing to indulge. Shirtless climbing in November?
California, baby!
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roughster
Nov 8, 2004, 5:20 PM
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WHAT?!?!?!? You kept saying, "Dude take the picture now EURO CHALKING!!! :lol: Just kidding of course. I will confess to making Dave hang out longer at the crux then necessary, but that shirtless thing was all his own :shock: :lol:
Come on Dave, it is not like it was 70 degrees in either the sun or the shade, just the slightest of breezes, and only one party on the entire cliff or something 8^)
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caughtinside
Nov 8, 2004, 5:22 PM
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In reply to: Come on Dave, it is not like it was 70 degrees in either the sun or the shade, just the slightest of breezes, and only one party on the entire cliff or something 8^)
Blatant narcissism exposed! 8^)
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cammaniac
Nov 8, 2004, 5:49 PM
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I've heard about this place in Montana called Blackleaf. Some of the routes are in the database on rc.com. It looks very underdeveloped, but whats there are sport routes about 6 or 7 pitches.
I plan on making a trip there next summer.
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slablizard
Nov 9, 2004, 4:30 AM
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Leaks :)
It's about time! :P
Hope I'll make it this weekend
In reply to: If you mean summer of 2005, there should be a new area for you to check out in NorCal. While the info is not quite public yet, by then it will be, plus we should have added a bunch other MPs for everyone to climb. Two photo's from this weekend. The climb is Aloha Patrol 5.11b (yeah right :lol:) 4 pitches (1-10d/11a, 2-10b, 3-11b+ (heheh), 4- 10b). There are other MPs already established, and another should go down this weekend :) http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=43191 Pitch 3 (crux pitch) and yeah, it's got the steeps :) http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=43192 Pitch 4 (affectionately called the "Bad Joke" pitch). Just when you think it's over, it isn't! |
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barkernews
Nov 10, 2004, 6:59 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2004
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Try "Wherever I May Roam" at Smith.
Easy sport... but fun!
I think it's 4 or 5 pitches, 5.9.
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noeman
Nov 16, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
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Prince of Darkness, Red Rocks, NV pretty much all 5.10 or some people I went climbing with lately told me El Portero Chico close to Monterrey, Mexico (1000 ft sport climbs), Owens River Gorge- Tower of Inferno 11b 5 pitches....
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noeman
Nov 16, 2004, 8:37 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
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Ok, now that is a nice photo! Where is that wall at?
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therealdeal
Nov 16, 2004, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2002
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near scenic mesquite, nv
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roughster
Nov 22, 2004, 7:13 AM
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trd:
The Grail I presume? :)
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esallen
Nov 23, 2004, 5:15 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2004
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Multi pitch sport routes...hmmm...
If you decide to pass through central Utah, Don't miss Room With a View (10.a 3 pitches) in American Fork Canyon and The Trilligy (5.9/.11 4 pitches) in Rock Canyon near Provo.
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jammer
Nov 23, 2004, 2:24 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
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How about Infinite Bliss? Check it out http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=7938
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therealdeal
Nov 23, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2002
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yeah, that's right. limekiln canyon. if you are ever in the area....it is worth a stop.
that picture probably does not show 1/2 the routes, or 1/4 of the potential.
funny that noone ever climbs there...
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crackmd
Nov 23, 2004, 5:41 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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The Great Escape in Yosemite Valley is a multi pitch climb that is sport bolted the whole way. It is great climbing and rated 5.11. If you go to Yosemite and only sport climb then you are REALLY BLOWING IT!
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ron_burgandy
Dec 7, 2004, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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If you want a good mulit pitch you should head up to washington in the cascades and try infinate bliss- the longest sport route in america! and its not to hard (23 pitches, 5.10b, 2600 feet) on the western side of Mt Garfield. But beware some of the easier pitches (5.5) only have one or two bolts on em yet every move over 5.7 is well protected. pitches 16, 17 are poorly protected but easy (3rd/ 4th class climbing). If you are into long mutipitch give it a good look- it would be a good idea to talk to someone extensivly about it because route finding can be hard at times.
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ron_burgandy
Dec 7, 2004, 8:45 PM
Post #22 of 24
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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If you are in washington you should also check out liberty bell another solid multipitch- it is more of alpine rock though
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grayhghost
Dec 7, 2004, 9:22 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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"infinate bliss- the longest sport route in america!"
What about the routes on Notch peak in Utah?
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mattm
Dec 7, 2004, 9:34 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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In reply to: If you want a good mulit pitch you should head up to washington in the cascades and try infinate bliss- the longest sport route in america! and its not to hard (23 pitches, 5.10b, 2600 feet) on the western side of Mt Garfield. But beware some of the easier pitches (5.5) only have one or two bolts on em yet every move over 5.7 is well protected. pitches 16, 17 are poorly protected but easy (3rd/ 4th class climbing). If you are into long mutipitch give it a good look- it would be a good idea to talk to someone extensivly about it because route finding can be hard at times.
Having done the route I think "sport" is misleading. Yes the technical pitches are bolted BUT those easier pitches are run out and more importantly, that 3rd/4th class stuff is
a) Very hard to route find on if you don't know EXACTLY where you're going
b) Loose and dicey (like 4th class DFU stuff)
Also keep in mind it takes a good 2-3+ hours to rap...
Long alpine bolted route is a better description - Have your sh_t in line and be fast on it. Good training would be to do Royal Arches to Crest Jewel in under 12 hours CTC...
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