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constructiblepoint
Dec 1, 2004, 11:21 PM
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any tips on removing metal components from tight line?
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yamama
Dec 2, 2004, 12:22 AM
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ok... this might be kinda hard to say without pic's but i'll go for it...
All you need to do is get an extra biner and clip it in the knot (this is when you set up).
If you have a knot that is stuck right now all you can do is pull on it and keep try'n to get it out... sometimes putting it in water helps, if it's webbing that is.
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petsfed
Dec 2, 2004, 12:49 AM
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In reply to: any tips on removing metal components from tight line?
What he means is getting carabiners out of a system. The best way to get it done is to over tighten with one method, release (slowly) onto a sling tied directly to the anchor then take apart your tightening system. That's the best way to get it done.
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coldclimb
Dec 2, 2004, 1:26 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: any tips on removing metal components from tight line? What he means is getting carabiners out of a system. The best way to get it done is to over tighten with one method, release (slowly) onto a sling tied directly to the anchor then take apart your tightening system. That's the best way to get it done.
Word. What I learned (Thanks Larry and Chris ;) ) is to tighten it nicely, then take a spare piece of webbing and tie it off beefy, and then release the tensioning system. Watch out for webbing on webbing points though, especially if the anchor is a wide tree or something similar, thus making a wide angle V of webbing to tie off to. The sideways motion of the line at the V will melt it over time in a situation like that, either causing it to break or sticking the pieces together permanently. Actually, this even happens sometimes with a narrow V... best to have a single point to tie off to somehow. ;)
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kilgymrats
Dec 2, 2004, 3:04 AM
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CC is right on about the webbing issue. You can remove the hardware and tie the line off directly to the anchor with an extra piece of webbing..going webbing to webbing.
To avoid burning through the line b/c of the nylon to nylon friction go to your local hardware store and buy a small section of clear rubber tubbing (usually in the pluming section). 1" tubbing will work. Thread the tubbing on the piece of webbing your going to use to tie off the line. Put the piece of tubbing where you have webbing to webbing contact. Lines don't touch and you can still see the webbing through the tube to check to make sure it's in good condition. Hope that helps a little.
my spelling sux sorry..
~jOsh
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veganboyjosh
Dec 2, 2004, 3:13 AM
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i'm not sure i understand the webbing on webbign issue. is it an issue even with no movement in the system? just from the tension that it's under? that can cause it to melt/decay?
or is this to accomodate tightening and loosening of various parts of the system?
help te noob please.
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coldclimb
Dec 2, 2004, 3:23 AM
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In reply to: i'm not sure i understand the webbing on webbign issue. is it an issue even with no movement in the system? just from the tension that it's under? that can cause it to melt/decay? or is this to accomodate tightening and loosening of various parts of the system? help te noob please.
No, it's only an issue when you're on the line, bouncing, surfing, moving a lot. That's when the webbing can melt. I've never tried kilmygrats' method, but I'd have to guess we can trust his word. ;)
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barefooter
Dec 2, 2004, 4:19 AM
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Has anybody ever had any problems, like the line snapping, where metal in the line could actually hurt somebody, or is there another reason you'd want to do away with metal?
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coldclimb
Dec 2, 2004, 4:24 AM
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I haven't personally, but yes, quite a few people have. ;)
Take bs for instance:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=43305
Also, it just makes the line generally lighter, and therefore smoother. Not a whole lot, but it's often noticable.
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clausti
Dec 2, 2004, 4:31 AM
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edit: delete.
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barefooter
Dec 2, 2004, 4:38 AM
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That sucks!! At least he got a picture of it.
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theturtle
Dec 2, 2004, 8:03 AM
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kilgymrats' idea sounds good, although I've never tried it.
We (me and Larry) have been removing all the metal from all of our lines ever since we figured out how to "softpoint" the line and still have a way to release it.(that was the crux)
Of the hundreds of lines we've setup, we notice slight degredation of the webbing but no significant damage due to webbing-on-webbing contact, even after hours of hardcore slacking. Several lines we rigged were set up and not taken down for over a year, but were still slackable and showed no extra wear due to the softpoints. We have even used softpoints on 175' lines with no burning from the webbing-on-webbing contact.
This is not to say that some of you brainiacs won't have problems, I'm just telling you that it's possible.
Unfortunately, describing the softpointing method we use on this forum, is like teaching someone how to belay on a forum. It's not really not hard to do, it's just a tad too confusing which could lead to a dangerous situation.
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jb
Dec 2, 2004, 8:16 AM
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how are you able to soft point then release without cutting webbing?....do you put the tightening system back in to loosen it?
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theturtle
Dec 2, 2004, 8:23 AM
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In reply to: how are you able to soft point then release without cutting webbing?....do you put the tightening system back in to loosen it?
Good question jb, that's one way to do it.
Again I said it was the crux...
In reply to: Unfortunately, describing the softpointing method we use on this forum, is like teaching someone how to belay on a forum. It's not really not hard to do, it's just a tad too confusing which could lead to a dangerous situation. |
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coldclimb
Dec 2, 2004, 9:50 AM
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If you're up for some fun, cutting the anchor sling is a quick way to get a line down. :twisted: Don't know what it does to the webbing, but it's fun to watch from a safe position. Just gotta not really need that extra two feet of knot on the anchor. ;)
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petsfed
Dec 2, 2004, 3:13 PM
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In reply to: Has anybody ever had any problems, like the line snapping, where metal in the line could actually hurt somebody, or is there another reason you'd want to do away with metal?
Uh yeah. I had an anchor sling blow out while I was tightening the line, so the crab that connected the sling to the line came flying at me from the other end of the line, hit me (glancingly) in the knee, then stopped. If the crab had hit me dead center in the knee, I wouldn't be walking. Instead I've got a wierd scar and a sometimes sore knee.
Solution: use fat webbing in your anchor slings, it takes more abrasion to eat through them!
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climbrc
Dec 8, 2004, 10:33 PM
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Since you guys have done this a lot.. How could you set up a slack line with NO "trees" or columns? Is there any kind of tripod setup that would work?
I ask because I'd like to set one up in the middle of a feild..
cheers,
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coldclimb
Dec 8, 2004, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: Since you guys have done this a lot.. How could you set up a slack line with NO "trees" or columns? Is there any kind of tripod setup that would work? I ask because I'd like to set one up in the middle of a feild.. cheers,
Try 2x4s, one end of each cut at 45 degrees, and a 1-inch hole drilled in both, with a 1-inch wooden peg slid through. Fairly easy. I was shown by Scott Balcom (slackdaddy). Pretty simple setup, and you can drill more than one hole to change heights.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/smith/john06.jpg
Myself, surfing hard.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/smith/chris02.jpg
Chris Hill (theturtle) getting low in a Harpe sit.
On a related note, I snapped this line while surfing, and it just fell to the ground. So they won't throw metal at you ALL the time. ;) It was pretty loose.
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climbrc
Dec 10, 2004, 4:04 PM
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Sweet, thanks..
How'd you stake this thing in the ground? Looks like more webbing, but how'd you stake that down? 10 penny nails or something?
Is the line quite tight?
Cheers,
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coldclimb
Dec 10, 2004, 10:32 PM
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In reply to: Sweet, thanks.. How'd you stake this thing in the ground? Looks like more webbing, but how'd you stake that down? 10 penny nails or something? Is the line quite tight? Cheers,
J stakes of rebar, about two feet long with the tips bent over into a J. The small line in the background of that first pic was WAY tight, but the one I snapped wasn't.
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billypilgrim
Dec 12, 2004, 5:22 PM
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Any reason for using a wooden dowel instead of a big bolt with washers, it seems that a bolt would hold the 2x4's together better.
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areyoumydude
Dec 12, 2004, 6:23 PM
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In reply to: Any reason for using a wooden dowel instead of a big bolt with washers, it seems that a bolt would hold the 2x4's together better.
The dowels make it easier to set up and break down.
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coldclimb
Dec 14, 2004, 4:51 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Any reason for using a wooden dowel instead of a big bolt with washers, it seems that a bolt would hold the 2x4's together better. The dowels make it easier to set up and break down.
Word. And it holds it together just fine actually. There's no problems with it coming apart.
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