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jiadar
Dec 2, 2004, 12:24 AM
Post #1 of 13
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
Posts: 89
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Friday, August 19, 2004.
Morganton, NC. "Weren't you in here yesterday", the young lady behind
the Wendy's counter asks the customer in line ahead of us. Its
comforting knowing I'm back in the South, where everyone knows your
family and small talk is required. While not New Orleans, I feel like
I'm home. There's definately a slow pace of life here as Mark, my
climbing partner, and I eat our triple cheeseburgers and sip sweet
tea. We know we will need the energy for our objective. Tommorow we
will climb The Daddy - a 5 pitch 5.6 in the Linville Wilderness near
Asheville, North Carolina.
Ever since my first trip to Linville Gorge in 2001, I wanted to climb
The Daddy. Its impressive buttress rises almost 2,000 feet from the
valley floor. Its allure is not only in the difficult nature of the
climb itself, but the adventure it provides. Nestled almost 2 hours
into a roadless wilderness with few visitors, Mark and I will be alone
and independent. Driving into the Table Rock parking lot for the 3rd
time in as many years, I remember the epics of past visits and am
gripped with anticipation of how our story will unfold.
The sun rises over the valley on a beautiful, cloudless friday
morning. Mark and I wake slowly and take a casual approach to the
climb, leaving the trailhead at 10:30 am. We bring an extra rope,
enough food for 2 days, and almost 2 gallons of water. We know that
the Gorge does not take kind to the inexperienced.
A 30 minute hike along a narrow ridgetop trail leads us to the descent
gully. Climbers usually approach The Daddy from the ridge top, by
following a number of unmarked trails and drainages. Some parties
search all day for the base of the buttress. Luckilly, Mark and I know
the way from prior trips and do not waste any time. We arrive to the
base in under 2 hours, making up for our late start.
Both Mark and I know about the seriousness of the task we are about
to embark on. Unlike Yosemite, where cell phones work and helicoptors
will come to your rescue, we are completely alone and
independent. This is both scary and rewarding. We know that even the
slightest injury could turn serious very quickly. After calculating
that the response for medical attention would be over 10 hours - very
likley the next day - Mark and I decide one saftey measure we would
both have to agree on. Don't Fall.
With that discussion complete, I lead off on the first pitch. The
climbing is solid on two corners with a ledge inbetween. It sucks up
gear and brings me to an outstanding belay ledge. After I am tied to a
bomber anchor of 2 cams and a nut, I turn and look over the valley.
Lush green trees cover miles in every direction. The Linville River
roars hundreds of feet below.
By the time we change gear at the belay, we notice the pitch took 75
minutes. With 5 pitches, we would be on the route for over 6 hours. I
figure that would be okay, because we would definately top out before
dark. And after 3 years of climbing, Mark and I know always to bring
our headlamps!
Pitch 2 is quick and uneventful. The only problem is the belay ledge.
Apparently, a tree that had been used for the belay was dead! The
only other anchors on the ledge are a small cam placement and another
tree hanging over the edge. I use these two, and also the dead
tree. By planting my foot firmly on a root, I remembered Mark saying
he wouldn't fall. He successfully completes the pitch keeping our
agreement.
Pitch 3 is mostly a traverse along a broad ledge to blocks. I am able
to make a little shortcut. I easiely set up a belay by slinging two
blocks with the rope and using a medium sized cam.
All of the trad leads I have done in my life have been onsite
leads. I've never yet lead a climb I've seconded or top-roped. Mainly
because if I wanted to do a climb, I'd have to lead it - as most of my
friends do not lead. This makes things very interesting, as each climb
is like a good book. It keeps me in suspense and I never know what is
next. Rarley can I see even the entire next pitch. I'm venturing off
into the unknown. I am in control of the exploration. This is one of
the lures of traditional lead climbing - not knowing what is
next. This uncertanty creates adventure. It often causes me to push
past my limits, sometimes because I have no choice.
I take a folded piece of paper out of my shorts pocket. On the topo,
Pitch 4 looks like the easiest pitch. Face climbing with what looks
like big ledges, then a dihedral. I look down at Mark belaying me from
the blocks as I head up a bulging face. Decent holds lead to a
placement I wouldn't even trust with bodyweight about 10 feet off the
deck. After 3 such placements in a row, I finally get in a good piece
after about 60 feet of climbing. I continue up, now more confident
with a big cam in a solid crack. I place a nut in a strenous stance,
which isn't too good. I grab it and pull with a good portion of my
bodyweight, and it held. If it doesn't come out with rope drag, it may
stop a fall. Looking around, it is all I have. I continue going and
eventually find my way 20 more vertical feet to the dihedral.
I manage to get in another nut I am not happy with. Looking up, I
determine the next 15 feet is the hardest part of the pitch - a
bulging diheadral. I delay at the base of the dihedral. I finally get
the nerve to do it. I start up, working the moves and feeling a little
sketchy. I reach my foot to a small protrusion and as I stand I hear a
popping sound! I had just enough time to gape in horror as I see the
nut sliding down the rope. A thousand things run through my mind in an
instant as I slowly slip off my handhold. I know my only good gear on
the pitch is at least 40 feet below me, and I'm looking at a 90 foot
fall onto ledges. If I fall, I'd definately be injured. This deep in
the wilderness, even a simple injury could mean a slow and painful
death.
But instead of panic, I have the ultimate clarity. I feel something
with me that gives me the power to link 5 holds on the face to ascend
to safer terrain. I know simply, that there are times when I am
climbing that I just can't fall. This is one of them. I don't even
consider the possibility of falling. It won't happen.
I get to a ledge, look out at the view, and realize how much I love
climbing. I know this climb is within my ability, and standing here on
this ledge, looking down at my cam 60 feet below, I feel alone yet
empowered. I think about how insignificant I am, that the Gorge could
have easiely taken me today if it wanted to. I realize there is
something greater at work than just my effort alone.
I place two cams and continue over blocks to the belay. I bring Mark
up and we enjoy a 45 minute break on the ledge. I look at Pitch 5, a
perfect crack in a left facing corner. As far as I was concerned, I'd
already beaten the Daddy. Pitch 5 would go down easiely, bringing us
to the most challenging part of the day.
By the time Mark gets up to the top, the sun has set below the Gorge
rim. Darkness is coming quickly. I want to get away from the edge of
the cliff and into the woods. We divide up the chores and quickly have
everything packed. I find a well worn trail leading to the Mummy
descent gully. We look down this gully in the darkness and even though
we have 2 ropes decide to take the woods instead. How far could it be
to the ridgetop trail running through the wilderness? I set my compass
using the shadow of the opposing buttress.
I lead the first 30 minutes breaking trail. The brush is thick and
going is very slow. As sweat drips off my face, I take the last sip of
my water. Mark says he exausted his long ago. The rack and rope are
snagging on every tree slowing our pace. We follow winding game
trails, cliff edges, and most importantly the compass. The briars and
twigs enjoy chewing our bare legs to hamburger.
After awhile, Mark sees that I'm struggling and agrees to break
trail. He gets frustrated quickly - this worries me. I calculate worst
case scenerios. The woods seem endless and repetitive because the
visibility is zero in every direction. The ridgetop looks further away
with every step towards it. I suddenly feel very alone. I recall
similar feelings from last year's trip to Linville:
Being in "survival mode" is definately an interesting
feeling. Sort of like subdued panic. If you panic, you will
die. So you are panicing in the back of your mind, but in the
panic, you calculate. Thinking of all the options and
avenues. Being lost in the vast wilderness is like being locked in
a jail cell. While it would seem you are free to explore in this
open space, the fact is you are trapped and isolated. Truley a
paradox of open space, with such space itself being restricting
and confining....
I calculate we would hit the main north-south trail at the ridgetop
within an hour. The timer on my watch says 1h 05m. I make a deal with
myself, that I will find the trail, and I will find it within the
next hour. We certainly have enough energy for another hour. Seeing the
same darkness over and over again, Mark is convinced we are going in
circles. I know we are experienced navigators, and I know we will find
the trail.
As I am leading and thrasing down trees I finally get to a welcome
open space. Wow, its the trail! I turn around and look into the
woods. Mark looks larger than life, his bright headlamp shining at me,
and his lanky body distorted by the plump backpack. I yell to Mark,
"Time for a break!". Mark knows I hit the trail. He is obviously happy
and so am I. Now, I know we will be okay. I tease Mark and we
congradulate each other on a great epic day.
Driving slowly out of Linville Gorge late at night, the crickets
chirp, the mountains tower, and I catch a glimpse of a brown wooden
sign. It says "Linville Wilderness", and its letters elongate in my
mind like the blood seeping from the cuts on my legs. I feel something
lurking within the forest, something watching us. Something that
knows, something bigger than ourselves. The Wilderness let us win this
time, but it proved it was almost an equal match.
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jon
Dec 2, 2004, 1:39 AM
Post #2 of 13
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Registered: Mar 1, 2003
Posts: 24
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wow, i can't believe that you were able to make a climb like the daddy sound so serious and scary. i hope you were kidding about the compass bearing. the bushwacking in that part of the gorge is so overrated. the first time i went there i easily found the route. glad to hear that you had a fun time. that climb protects easily. if you can't comfortably climb 5.5, then don't run it out.
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kilgymrats
Dec 2, 2004, 2:28 AM
Post #3 of 13
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 161
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Nice trip report. I went and soloed the Mummy and the Daddy last year around the same month and did the exact same thing you guys did. After doing the Mummy I took the decent gully and then after finishing the Daddy, just as darkness fell, I decided not to go back down that crazy steep gully and opted for the "walk off" from the top. YEAH RIGHT!
After running out of water around 1pm earlier that day I thought that the walk off would be quicker and easier. Nope. Needless to say I was pretty lost just as you guys were for a few hours and yes those biars and down trees are a biznitch. They tore my pants so badly that I took them off and left them in the woods (I know someone shoot me..i'm a destroyer of the widerness) I proceded to walk out in my boxers. Finally found the trail..but it went perpendicular to the ridge...eh? Where the heck am I? I climbed a tree and could see Table Rock (where the car was) and started off on the trail that best headed in that direction. Luckely I ran into some backpackers who told me I was going the right direction.
Made it back to the parking lot with the same diced up legs as you guys and got home just in time to get yelled at by my wife. Sweetness!
Lessons learned: Take the recomended decent gully....buy stronger pants.
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cjstudent
Dec 2, 2004, 2:40 AM
Post #4 of 13
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369
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The gorge is an area that its good to know where you are going. The bushwacking in the amphitheatre area can be bad depending what time of the year you are there. The daddy isn't that much of a scary climb. it protects quiet well, except maybe for a few of the face climbing sections. very nice trip report. i try a different approach/descent every time i go into the gorge area and have found myself stuck there after dark a time or two.
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glyrocks
Dec 2, 2004, 2:46 AM
Post #5 of 13
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
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I dunno dude, The Daddy isn't really that epic. It's 5.5 and takes gear like that's the only thing it's there for. Once you top out, you just sorta walk up slope and then take the big trail back to the parking lot. Granted, the Gorge does have some burly stuff in it, and people (not just climbers) get hurt and die out there, sometimes. But, hey, climbing is about epics- even if you have to make it one. Glad you enjoyed some NC climbing though, check out Shortoff Mtn. sometime if you're in the area again.
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nrvna963
Dec 2, 2004, 3:16 AM
Post #6 of 13
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Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 156
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lol, nice description though
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climbinginchico
Dec 2, 2004, 4:12 AM
Post #7 of 13
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
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nice TR Ross. We will be doing crazier stuff next summer!
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olejeff
Dec 2, 2004, 7:10 AM
Post #8 of 13
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Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 99
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It's great that you had a fun trip climbing in the Gorge. I have nothing but fond memories of trips camping and climbing at Table Rock. I always found the approach to be fairly easy and straightforward. Except for the first time I was there, missed the spot where the trail turned downhill to the right..and ended up going halfway to Shortoff..or it felt like it anyway. Or, the time we got hit with a really intense thunderstorm just as we were starting the raps down the decent chasm. The storm turned the hike out into quite a quagmire and adventure. Or, the time just after the fire, we decided to walk up after topping out instead of doing the raps, and ended up bushwacking through the burned charcoal. I can't wait to get back to NC in the spring.
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dennyg
Dec 2, 2004, 1:11 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Mar 20, 2004
Posts: 374
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it's a ez hike now
20yrs ago...u just put ur head down and scream...I wish I had a machete
no dought a magical area
evening hike along Mt. to Sea
http://http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/6d42c74d/1571/__sr_/3eb6.jpg?phDgxrBBON73kG6v
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ottoman
Dec 2, 2004, 2:22 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: May 26, 2003
Posts: 149
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I wonder when the gate is locked for the season at Table Rock...Anyone know?..........And yes the first time i was on the climb, epic.....bad thunderstorm, bbbbrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!......Any bad day of climbing beats the best day of sitting on the couch, now off to work!
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bumblie
Dec 2, 2004, 9:19 PM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 7629
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I think the gate is closed from November 1 - March 31. They may open it by mid March. When in doubt call the ranger in Marion.
Nice trip report, jiadar. While the climbing is easy, the overall experience is big fun - good rock, great belays w/ fantastic views in a remote setting. You got to love it. :D
To anyone climbing this on the weekend, GET AN EARLY START!!! There's nothing like getting behind a party of four (w/ only one leader).
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jiadar
Dec 3, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
Posts: 89
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I've been climbing at the Gorge as late as mid november, never saw the g ate locked. It can be pretty pleasent to climb at that time of year; or it could be downright cold.
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