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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 29, 2001, 1:16 AM
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Someone once told me that gym routes and indoor artificial climbing routes have a different grading system other than 5.--. I have no clue if this is true or not, the gym that I go to uses the 5.-- system, if you have any info on this subject it would be much appreciated.
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wandt
Aug 29, 2001, 2:30 AM
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The Vancouver gyms each use a grading system that is different, though they each use the 5. system (the YDS- Yosemite Decimal System). The Edge's YDS is the same as that of the Squamish climbs. Cliffhanger's seems to have 5.9's harder than 5.10's and the Rockhouse's seems, for the most part, simply to be abstract numbers.
I like climbing at the Rockhouse best.
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krillen
Aug 29, 2001, 2:48 AM
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MM: Indoor climbs are usually much easier than similar gaded routes outside. i.e. an indoor 5.8 is simple comapred to an outdoor 5.8. And then that 5.8 route get sharded when you try to sport lea dit adn even HARDER when you try and trad lead it!
This is when using the 5._ scale
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congo
Aug 29, 2001, 8:36 AM
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we dont have that grading system in any of the gyms i go to.
..the boulder problems are rated 1 to 6 (6 hardest, 1 intense warmup)
the climbs are graded as beginner, easy, moderate, difficult, very difficult, filty hard, do you have medical insurance?, and only birds can fly..
..well, not quite, the last 2 are in ther for dramatic effect
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jcs
Aug 29, 2001, 11:20 AM
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the edge has grades like squamish? cliffhanger has 5.9's harder than 5.10's? not sure what you climb at squamish, but in my experience the edge has way softer grades than either squamish or cliffhanger- cliffhangers grades are often pretty stiff, but so are the sport grades at squamish (compared to flagstaff's pit, or red rocks, but not smith...). anyhow, the whole deal with grades, whether in a gym or outside isnt that grades should be the same at two differernt climbing areas, but that the grades be consistent within the same area- largely to avoid harsh and potentially dangerous sandbags, as well as to allow each climber to chart their progress. this is one reason that grade chasing for its own sake is really silly- the fastest way to go up two letter grades is to drive from smith rocks to red rocks! of course you are still the same climber... in the end a grade is just a subjective measurement, and will depend, both outside on real rock and in the gym, on the subjective opinion of (mostly) the person who put it up. and blah, blah, blah... hope all this has something to do with the question.
[ This Message was edited by: jcs on 2001-08-29 16:02 ]
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jcs
Aug 29, 2001, 11:25 AM
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oh yeah, i'd also say that climbs inside tend to be harder because an outdoor climb is pretty much rated by its single hardest move- so a climb that has a single 5.12 move and the rest is 5.11, will tend to be rated 5.12. inside the gym, each move of a 5.12 is usually 5.12. also, depending on where you climb, most gym routes have fewer rests than you can often get outside. of course, none of this is set in stone, and i can think of lots of exceptions- but they are, in my experience, exceptions... i think that answers the question a little better!
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andy_lemon
Sep 7, 2001, 2:43 AM
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The gym I climb at, Vertical Escape in Indiana, uses two systems; the Yosemite Decimal System on long routes and traverses and also the "V" system.
The "V" system is a common bouldering grade system used and runs from V0 to V14. V0 is about 5.9, a V5 is about 5.12 and a V11 is about a 5.14. Our setters can put up about V10 and 5.13s. A couple of years ago we used to use the UIAA scale.
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