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crotch
Dec 9, 2004, 6:59 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
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gone
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faust
Dec 10, 2004, 10:01 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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It seems that all of the bolts that have been added to this climb are "convenience bolts." I'm referring to the rappel route down the Gully, the rappel route down the Slab proper, and the two (?) new belay stations on the 3rd and 4th pitches of the Slab. Maybe it's not good to speculate, but who besides guides would have the motivation to go through all the trouble of making a route (which can be done easily up and down with all natural gear) more convenient?
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gds
Dec 10, 2004, 11:22 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Mar 8, 2004
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In reply to: . Maybe it's not good to speculate, but who besides guides would have the motivation to go through all the trouble of making a route (which can be done easily up and down with all natural gear) more convenient?
Interesting -- Over the years I've climbed with lots of guides as a client and as a partner. The ones I know are pretty trad in their ethics and the only time I've seen them bolt for convenience is in areas they develop for just that purpose- certainly not on established routes.
Is my experience different from most?
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flamer
Dec 11, 2004, 12:02 AM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: . Maybe it's not good to speculate, but who besides guides would have the motivation to go through all the trouble of making a route (which can be done easily up and down with all natural gear) more convenient? Interesting -- Over the years I've climbed with lots of guides as a client and as a partner. The ones I know are pretty trad in their ethics and the only time I've seen them bolt for convenience is in areas they develop for just that purpose- certainly not on established routes. Is my experience different from most?
I too have climbed with and have a number of friends who are guide's.
I agree that most of them have fairly traditional ethics, however I know some that are on the other end of the spectrum, And I'll name- name's....
Eli Helmuth, The head guide of Colorado Mountain school, has been doing some very shady things around lumpy ridge for awhile now. Including, but not limited to- retro bolting, putting up "new" routes with asca hardware(and not with their permission), moving anchors for his conveience.
I know of other guide's who've added or beefed up anchors on established route's- simply for their convience....
Personally I don't think it's right.
josh
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omeier
Dec 11, 2004, 12:32 AM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Jun 30, 2004
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Nice story, sounded like fun. :P
Was that a box of Krispy Kremes? Part of any true rack.
how does it go, a pound on the rack is 5 on the ass?
lol :D
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whatsupdoc
Dec 11, 2004, 1:14 AM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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Great TR.
I consider it a small miracle that I rapped all of Solar Slab without one stuck rope, I'll tell ya that rock is like velcro when you're pulling your ropes.
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olejeff
Dec 12, 2004, 12:54 AM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Oct 1, 2004
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Krispy kremes and amber bock...breakfast of champions. :D
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trangtu
Dec 16, 2004, 11:42 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 108
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Awesome trip report, you two!! Wish I could've been there--but will be soon--soon!! Reno if you ever quit paramedicking you've got a future in storytelling!
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