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climbinganne
May 18, 2002, 3:08 PM
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I have sportiva...focus, needed the stiffness after foot surgury, but hard to feel the rock. I am looking now at Huecos-five tens, borrowed then from a friend.....WOW!!!!!!
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xen_monkey
May 18, 2002, 4:18 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2001
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I wear Boreal Pyros and Boreal Stingers (though I need them resoled). I find Boreals fit the best of the shoes I've tried. All the LA Sportiva's I've tried fit funny. I kecpt doing smaller sizes yet I stil felt like I had dead spots on the outside edge.
5.10 tens sizing is funny, each shoe sizing was different. Its like they already take into account you need to get them smaller so they just put a larger number on a small shoe. Its weird. Plus I can never seem to find my size.
But Back to my shoes. I really like the stingers. Good edging and the toe crest is great on overhangs, though I did find the rubber wore a little fast, but that could by my fault . They also stretch almost a full size, luckily I got them small enough that I didn't lose and sensitivty. I just got the Pyros and I've only worn them twice so I can't really comment on them other than I love the fit. The neoprene makes them sooo comfortable, they're like a hybrid between a slipper and a velcro because of the use of both neoprene and velcro.
But lets face it, the best recomndation for shoes come from your feet. Find something that fits nice and snug with no obvious presure points that might not stretch. And ask how much they'll give.
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cragman
May 19, 2002, 12:07 AM
Post #28 of 56
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Registered: May 12, 2002
Posts: 65
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I have a pair of 5.10 navajo, good all around shoe. Perfect to begin, not too agresive and won't kill your feet
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climber_dude
May 19, 2002, 3:52 AM
Post #29 of 56
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 154
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i have a pair of rock pillar walls because its all my local store sells and im flat out paying for my gym membership
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boogirl
May 19, 2002, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Mar 20, 2002
Posts: 135
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My first pair of dancing shoes were 5.10 diamonds. Made especially for women and their narrow heels, I found them to be incredibly comfortable and a great all around shoe. Later I decided something a little more technical was in order so I acquired a pair of LaSportiva mythos. They're like a jack-of-all-trades. A balance of fit, comfort and performance unless you plan to wear them all day. I also keep a pair of 5.10 womens Zlippers with me. The pointy toe is great for technical stuff and they stick to almost anything - but, I have to agree with varstar10, they're the most uncomfortable things I've ever had on my feet! Wouldn't trade them for anything though.
[ This Message was edited by: boogirl on 2002-05-19 15:48 ]
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felixthecat
May 20, 2002, 12:31 AM
Post #31 of 56
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
Posts: 59
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5.10 newtons all the way. they do almost everything...microedges, smears, cracks, etc. just a great all around shoe that is comfy and good for long trad routes to bouldering. i also have a pair of anastazi velcros but i only use them on certain occassions.
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ky_boulder
May 20, 2002, 3:10 AM
Post #32 of 56
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 9
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Boreal Aces...
got 'em for $66
They fit great once my feet worked into them, I could smear up a wall in them if i had to, and they're really versatile. But not comfy enough for long climbs.
[ This Message was edited by: ky_boulder on 2002-05-19 21:11 ]
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allard
May 20, 2002, 5:56 PM
Post #33 of 56
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Registered: May 20, 2002
Posts: 9
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There's no such thing as the best climbing shoe. It depends on your style and level of climbing and the shape of your foot. Find one that fits evenly tight. try it on and try it out.
Stiffer shoes: better edging and less painful jamming, more durable
Softer shoes: more sensitive, for overhangs, better when placed flat on the rock (is this the definition of 'smearing'?, i'm not a native engl. speaker)
At this moment I use Sportiva Ghibli's and 5.10 mocassyms, but I've also been happy with Scarpa and Boreal.
allard
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bergsteiger
May 29, 2002, 4:36 AM
Post #34 of 56
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 13
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Boreal Equinox was my choice for my first shoe. I tried 5-10 and Scarpa but when I slipped into the Boreal it was like a glove~! The Scarpas made me cry
As mentioned the Equinox is board lasted for greater stiffness ... which from what I understand is better for a new climber. My only complaint, they tend to dig in the back of my heel .. easily solved with a small piece of felt and permanent glue.
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climbsomething
May 31, 2002, 11:53 PM
Post #35 of 56
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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Five-Ten Anasazi Velcro- great control and precision, supportive but not stiff, velcro makes them easy to get on and off. High performance. I use them for the gym and shorter sport routes.
La Sportiva Merak- nice for narrow feet, comfortable in the sun because of the light color and mesh tongue. My new fave for outdoors these days
Five-Ten Diamonds- a bit of a specialty. I use them for longer routes and/or routes I expect to take my time on (usually trad). They're very comfy all-around, but in the summer things can get toasty (see above). I also use them during certain times of the month when my feet swell and my other shoes are to tight
In terms of rubber (on shoes I have used), Five Ten is the best, then Sportiva, then Boreal. (I know rubber doesn't make the climber, but hey, I need all the handicaps I can get) But speaking of Boreal, I briefly owned a pair of Matrix slippers, v. comfy, but they were too big and I had to give them up for adoption (hmm, maybe that was why they were so comfy??)
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orestes1724
Jun 1, 2002, 12:07 AM
Post #36 of 56
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Registered: Sep 2, 2001
Posts: 1414
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one sport hooks:
they are awesome shoes. they hook really good (hence the name) and they are great for edging. the only bad part is they get really thin, really fast. i dont know if thats because i use them a lot but they get pretty thin.
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vaness
Jun 1, 2002, 1:17 AM
Post #37 of 56
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Registered: May 17, 2001
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the hooks also stretch about a half size. but the good thing is if you buy them small they will streatch withnin 5 times of climbing. they dint take long at all to streatch and "mold" to your feet
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ktwo
Jun 1, 2002, 3:33 AM
Post #38 of 56
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Registered: May 10, 2002
Posts: 443
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Bufo Pharoh's because they are cheep and I am poor. Once I got them resoled, they are actually pretty decent shoes.
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need_for_climbing
Jun 1, 2002, 5:32 AM
Post #39 of 56
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Registered: Feb 9, 2002
Posts: 42
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I wear the most aggressive bend shoe. La sportiva Mirage. Its red with yellow laces.
Advantages::eek: Good for twisting and drop knee. In bouldering its good when ur totally horizontal to the ground traveling lets say to the left. The aggressive shoe helps u hook onto the tile much easier then newtons or V10 those less aggressive shoes.
Disadvantages: Needs some getting used too. Not all people who wear it will find it comfortable. Because of the Banana like shape ur feet needs to be sharp. those with broad feet tend to not like the shoe. But once u adjust to the MIRAGE u will find it much comfortable then even newtons.(PLS EXCUSE MY ENGLISH)
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cragchica
Jun 1, 2002, 8:56 AM
Post #40 of 56
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Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 183
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I love my 5.10 Diamonds... super-comfy... and a good all-purpose shape. They have taught me to smear more and tip-toe less.
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crackhabit
Jun 3, 2002, 5:12 PM
Post #41 of 56
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Registered: Mar 26, 2002
Posts: 40
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i own 2 pairs of aces. i love them. the deal with buying shoes is that you have to try them one and get the one that fits your foot. i tried the mocasyms and had problem out of the box. every shoe is different. find the company the has the fit and go there. think not about price unless there is no choice. go with fit
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lesotho
Jun 4, 2002, 3:37 AM
Post #42 of 56
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 60
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I have LaSportiva Mythos.
They are unbelievably comfortable and they sit like a second skin. Great for long climbs, edging is great, smearing is great.
I am thinking of getting a pair of Red Chilli
Voodoo's because I hear it is a great presicion shoe and I want to have a slipper for sport climbing and keep my Mythos for those longer trad routes.
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fingerjam
Jun 4, 2002, 4:10 AM
Post #43 of 56
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Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 131
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I wear the scarpa Reflex's cuz they were reletivly cheap and they are a awsome shoe for the price.
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rico
Jun 4, 2002, 11:22 AM
Post #44 of 56
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 127
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When i started i bought the LA Sportiva "Cliff blue". Not bad to start, and more or less cheap.
Now i've got a 5.10 slipper to practice overhangs.
VOTE FOR ME!!! plz..
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spoon369
Jun 8, 2002, 12:44 AM
Post #45 of 56
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Registered: May 16, 2002
Posts: 21
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I have a pair of Kermit shoes from Climbingshoes.com. I only paid 50.00 for them at the time. I really like these shoes...they just feel good on my feet
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a4naught
Jun 8, 2002, 3:42 AM
Post #46 of 56
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 66
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I too own 5.10 Diamonds as my first pair, being a newbie. Half price at the 5.10 outlet in Redlands, CA. Fit my narrow little feet very nicely, though, I could still use something even narrower! Tried zillions of other shoes, but, due to narrow foot, and low ankle bone, could not fit any others but the 5.10 Sapphire (the update to the Diamond). Only issue is with my extra long Morton's toe on my left, which complains if I wear em too long. Also, on slabby stuff, the need for stronger feet and ankles in these becomes obvious. Phew! Screaming mimies! Maybe I should bring my flip flops for belay.
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justgoupfromthere
Jun 8, 2002, 5:20 AM
Post #47 of 56
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Registered: May 20, 2002
Posts: 50
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Scarpa Reflex. Basically because they were cheap and they edge well and are good in cracks. I am looking at getting a pair of velcro closures or slippers next.
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tahquitztwo
Jun 8, 2002, 6:07 AM
Post #48 of 56
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Registered: Jun 1, 2002
Posts: 197
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I use 5.10 Huecos(the old ones)and the Ascents...and still hang onto my old Boreal Fires (love that stiff board last for cracks)...and I'm considering a pair of Mythos because of the lacing which allows the shoe to be shaped to almost any foot if sized correctly.
I'm in agreement with Allard and a couple of the other posts.....I work at REI and am very familiar with climbing shoes...
go for the shoe that fits your feet the most comfortably and works best for the type of climbing you do and for your style of climbing. Shoes that are lined will not stretch much only conform to your foot and shoes that are not lined will stretch from one to two sizes after being used a few times. If you're new to climbing, go with a comfortable stiffer shoe since a slipper demands much stronger control of feet and ankles. Good luck and happy climbing
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bouldertoad
Jun 13, 2002, 5:43 AM
Post #49 of 56
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Registered: May 26, 2002
Posts: 352
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The age old shoe question is one that can be debated for all eternity. I own a pair of 5.10 Newtons for trad a pair of Boreal Pyros for sport/bouldering and a pair of 5.10 huecos for all day comfort.
In all reality though you should buy a shoe that fits your feet not the one that fits the pro's feet. I have seen people wearing an old pair of sportiva kaukulators send a 13 steep sport route and also have seen a person wearing slippers on a hard vertical/slab climb. Basically it is not on your feet that matters to much but rather what fits your feet.
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kitt
Jun 13, 2002, 2:03 PM
Post #50 of 56
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Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 13
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I climb just for 3 monthes and my La Sportiva Mythos seems to be the most universal for me and fits perfect.
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