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doktor_g
Nov 14, 2004, 11:53 PM
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Ah the heights... Clean air. Beautiful sunrise. Cup of joe. 1000 feet above a slumbering forest. You are in your home away from home. It would all be perfect if it just wasn't minus fifteen friggin degrees!!!
I'm a novice here and looking for SPECIFIC clothing needs from skin to shell including boots undies and head covering.
Here's what I'm thinking:
BOOTS: I've got LaSportiva leather 'Makalus' but my partners say that I'm gonna freeze my piggies off. One of them has the tricked out LaSportiva 'Nepal Extremes.' Any ideas? What about over boots? I need brands and models.
LEGS: I'm thinking more is better. Synthetic expd weight long johns, then mid weight fleece then Mountain Hardware Chugach pants.
CHEST. Synth expt wt long sleeves then Microfleece then either fleece vest or MH windstopper jacket then Go-Lite Synth Belay Jacket
HEAD: Balaclava. Brand? and brain bucket.
HANDS: I've got some MH fleece undergloves and just did a little 9000' cascade volcano and got frost nip. not pleasant. Switched to some el cheapo snowboarding gloves, but I don't think they'll cut it. Any ideas?
RAIN/PRECIP: I've just got crappy snowboarding bottoms and a Marmot mtnring shell for the top. One of the dudes has got a whole friggin TNF gore tex suit. That scares me a little. Ideas?
Thanks for your help,
Grover
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the_dude
Nov 15, 2004, 5:35 AM
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It all depends on where you're going to climb. let us know where you're headed!
Cheers
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alpinestylist
Nov 15, 2004, 5:05 PM
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Hmmmm...with all due respect, dry humor, and as little sarcasm as possible...
Have you tried yet? Did you get cold? How cold? When I'm cold I put more on, when I;m hot i take it off.
I try to stay dry at all costs, not always possible.
I bet most of us just went with what we had and then added where the mistakes were on the next trip. Maybe your a blessed trusty NOLS boy and can just buy all the stuff...
If you are Ill make you a sweet deal when you find out how much walls suck in teh winter....rofl. and want to unload all your crap.
...OR you love solitude, misery and hard work, buzzards waiting fo ryou to fall and die...and no worries about anything but the three feet in front of your eyes for days.
Good luck any either way..." a detailed list"...cmon now, dive in!
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lambone
Dec 13, 2004, 6:38 AM
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Grover,
For boots you want something with insulation for sure. Consider plastics.
Get some Gor-tex pants also. One peice suits are nice, but they can get really hot when the sun comes out and you don't have options for wearing one or the other (pants or coat). I wouldn't use one on a wall.
A big fat poofy synthetic belay coat is crucial. I like the puffy synthetic pants too.
Gloves-you'll probly want several options. Bring a pair of Gortex mittens with synthetic insulation for belays and bivis and for when it's really cold. A pair of BD Dry Tool Gloves or something similar (Cloudveils) is nice for climbing, but they will get trashed, so don't get too atatched. A cheap pair of woolies under a big leather figerless might be the better option. And finally, I have had other winter wall climbers swear by neoprene wet-suit gloves. Like the Glacier glove. Warmish when wet.
lots of socks.
the rest is pretty obvious. you'll figure it out on the T-Trip.
BTW-Alpinestylist, you sound like a prick.
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flamer
Dec 13, 2004, 2:51 PM
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In reply to: BTW-Alpinestylist, you sound like a prick.
Careful bro.
Not only has he climbed way more walls(and harder) in a WIDE variety of areas/arenas(and alot of them solo) than most of us, he's also intimately familiar with what occurs when something goes wrong during a winter acsent.
In other words he's #1 not a prick and #2 way more bad ass than you or I.
josh
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noshoesnoshirt
Dec 13, 2004, 4:41 PM
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Well Grover,
It's obvious you're probably gonna die on the first wall you get on in those temps. My advice is to mail me all your climbing gear, prescribe yourself a big 'ol dose of morphine, and watch daytime television.
Otherwise just heap on the clothes and suffer a bit. Don't forget the whiskey and cigars (seriously, nothing like inhaling hot smoke at a cold belay).
Regards,
k
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missedyno
Dec 13, 2004, 5:04 PM
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crazylikeafawkes moved this thread from General to Aid Climbing.
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atg200
Dec 13, 2004, 5:39 PM
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this is a classic TR that should be required reading for anyone doing a winter wall: http://www.bigwall.com/whitedvl.html
as for the question, if you have to ask and you need specific brand information you probably shouldn't be doing it yet.
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grippedclimer
Dec 13, 2004, 5:47 PM
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Dont do it. Go to Tahiti and enjoy yourself.
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dingus
Dec 13, 2004, 6:31 PM
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In reply to: In other words he's #1 not a prick and #2 way more bad ass than you or I. josh
I know LOT'S of pricks who are way more badass than me, or you. Check out supertopo.com if you doubt this simple fact... a board full of badass pricks! Badassedness is not a good indicator or prickitude.
DMT
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lambone
Dec 13, 2004, 7:55 PM
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I know nothing about mr. stylist nor really care. All I do know is that Grover is my friend, and he did his first big wall on his first try with me in a day and hung in there like a trooper, climbed till 3 in the morning without whining or doubting himself once. bad ass as anyone if you ask me.
just cause he has some questions about gar doesn't mean he needs to be pre-qualified by the peanut gallery here who think that they are so much better then everyone else.
Grover may or may not like big walls in the winter, but that is for him to find out on his own. why not give the bro a little encouragement instead of treating him like a niave little kid. he knows what he is geeting himself into.
peace
BTW- dr. G, lets go run (ok, walk fast) up another wall!
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flamer
Dec 14, 2004, 12:38 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In other words he's #1 not a prick and #2 way more bad ass than you or I. josh I know LOT'S of pricks who are way more badass than me, or you. Check out supertopo.com if you doubt this simple fact... a board full of badass pricks! Badassedness is not a good indicator or prickitude. DMT
Agreed! But I know this one and I assure you he's NOT a Prick.
josh
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flamer
Dec 14, 2004, 12:41 AM
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In reply to: I know nothing about mr. stylist nor really care. All I do know is that Grover is my friend, and he did his first big wall on his first try with me in a day and hung in there like a trooper, climbed till 3 in the morning without whining or doubting himself once. bad ass as anyone if you ask me.
Dude!!! Why do you always have to be so touchy???
Reread what he said....it was not only very good advise, but also encouraging!!! Of course it wasn't supertopo- "here's a list of everything you'll need" encouraging...more like "Hey go have an adventure and figure it out for yourself" encouraging.....
Did he enjoy jugging Skull Queen?
josh
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lambone
Dec 14, 2004, 2:09 AM
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whatever, not worth arguing about.
and I did Skull Queen with a different newbie, who led his fair share.
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moof
Dec 14, 2004, 5:53 AM
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Sierra Trading Post has 2 flavors of Winter Megas that are isulated for this kind of screwy self torture.
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bigwalling
Dec 14, 2004, 7:06 PM
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wow, flamer why don't you just blow him if ya like him so much!
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epic_ed
Dec 14, 2004, 7:08 PM
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Easy, guys. Keep the personal stuff out of it, please...
Ed
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flamer
Dec 14, 2004, 10:10 PM
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In reply to: wow, flamer why don't you just blow him if ya like him so much!
I pick the people I blow carefully, and I'd rather blow this hard guy then some soft gumby.....like someone else is doing.....but the real truth is....you should be blowing both of us.
Ever consider that the reason most of the really good climbers don't say much on this site is because when they do...people get all bent and throw a fit??? Look at the link provided by Atg for some light on the identity of Mr. stylist....you'd probably drop to your knee's as soon as you saw him.
josh
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akicebum
Dec 14, 2004, 11:32 PM
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Remember, the more crap you carry the longer you take, the longer you take the colder you get. Keep your head warm, a balaclava will make a world of difference. I go cheap on gloves but I carry several pairs. Drying gloves out on the route is typically an impossibility. As far as shells go think about what you are doing.
If you are going to the Valley then you might think about the whole soft shell rig. It sounds like what you have will work for most big walls in the lower 48. Just make sure you have good baselayer and a good belay parka. The fact remains that no matter how much crap you pile on if you are belaying an A4 pitch in cold weather you are going to freeze your ass off (Unless you are in a Portaledge, in a sleeping bag). So don't kid yourself about that. While you are climbing your work should keep you fairly warm.
Now if you are headed for Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Antarctica, Patagonia, or Pakistan it is time to take a serious look at where you are looking for advice. These are the kinds of things you want to have figured out long before you head to any of these places this time of year. Hope you have a good winter and be safe. Remember, everytime some jackass dies, doing something he or she had no business doing in the first place, all of our non-climber friends and familly ask us about it incessantly and call us crazy so don't be a black mark!!!
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guanoboy
Dec 14, 2004, 11:50 PM
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I'm curious as to where you are going. I always have trouble finding a partner for winter walling. As a result I have only soloed walls in the winter. Despite the endless misery of it there are several great benefits
1) you will keep warm if you are soloing
2) you don't have to haul much water
3) you will have the place to yourself (so don't screw up).
so, where are you going?
andrew
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lambone
Dec 15, 2004, 12:05 AM
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if you click on grovers user profile it states pretty clearly that has a goal of doing Tangerine Trip in February. Good winter route, but the last couple of pitches could likely be wet, could either be cruiser or epic.
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guanoboy
Dec 15, 2004, 1:28 AM
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yo doctor g-
I climbed the zodiac last february and found it to be surprisingly warm - it was hard for me (growing up in Nrn New England) to call it a winter wall. Temps did go below freezing every night but i was all snuggled up by then. It isn't like you will be clearing snow and ice from the cracks. The most 'wintry' thing about it is that you may get caught in a week long snowstorm. And oh yeah the east ledges descent in snow with a haulbag was one of the most miserable and scary things i've ever done - it took me about 12 hours to get down.
I plan on going back this winter though - pacific ocean wall, or the nose or something.
andrew
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alpinestylist
Dec 15, 2004, 9:43 PM
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Lambone...
You the guy that posted those Patagonia pics on supertopo? Sweet, those were so beautiful. I was down that way about a year ago, trip report made me jones.
So I dont really think this has anything to do with being badass. Your buddy asked what kind of clothes to wear, and while maybe sarcastic, I wasnt being cruel, or crushing his dreams was I? I pretty much said anyting will do?
someone asking about this sort of activity over the internet without taking some playful ribbing is unheard of. Sorry all this rubbed you the wrong way. Maybe you should ask yourself what it is within yourself that makes you act out like this :wink:
Hey Josh, thanks for the kind words. Been swingin the tools a bit and lovin life, how you doing?
I think the womans room has a pertinent thread regarding g-string selection on a climb.
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lambone
Dec 15, 2004, 10:04 PM
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In reply to: Sorry all this rubbed you the wrong way. Maybe you should ask yourself what it is within yourself that makes you act out like this :wink:
oh that's easy, I am a prick too....takes one to know one I guess... :wink:
I have a different question about winter wall climbiin that I have allways wondered about...
How do you deal with frozen water bottles? Seems like in real cold temps two litter bottle would turn lead block pretty easily...
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alpinestylist
Dec 15, 2004, 11:20 PM
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Ive hauled a sub pig full of snow and brewed up before. Refilling the pig everytime I hit a snowy ledge.
Ive heard of others having to chip ice off wall (or out of 2 liter I guess) and melting it with fuel too.
One time I bailed hauling a pig full of snow and just jetisoned it when i started rapping.
IT EXPLODED soooooo huge...funny, but expensive.
You really need to lighten up lambone, what are you so wound up about?
If you meet the Budda on the street, kill him! N'est pas?
Lay good odds your buddy is nowhere near the valley, but I guess it isn't really winter yet on the calendar.
If you have anything else you want to say, have at it. I've no real problem here, if you do....well, please respond and let me troll you somemore.
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