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Suggestions for the WEML
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guanoboy


Dec 17, 2004, 9:26 PM
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Suggestions for the WEML
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I am thinking of doing something on the wall of early morning light this winter - any suggestions?

WEML vs. New Dawn vs. Mescalito vs. PO wall vs. NA wall

thanks, andrew


alpinestylist


Dec 17, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Re: Suggestions for the WEML [In reply to]
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I've not climbed it, but Mescalito is high on my list. Looks soooo good, have done the Bismark, ugggggg.

South Seas is one of my alltime favs on teh cap. Those first pitches, and then the end of the PO soooooooooooo good.

That whole part of the wall is magnificent. I climbed those two and a few other in the area, as have many folks. If you want any beta just Holla

Cheers and GL


lambone


Dec 17, 2004, 10:11 PM
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Re: Suggestions for the WEML [In reply to]
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climb fast! sounds fun!

FYI- I've seen lots of falling Ice come crashing down near Mescalito. And except for a few pitches the NA is mostly in a major watercourse.

stylist, curious....how did you do the Bizmark without doing Mescalito? From Space?


guanoboy


Dec 17, 2004, 11:09 PM
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thanks for the NA, mescalito advice. New Dawn is looking good.
andrew


alpinestylist


Dec 17, 2004, 11:11 PM
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oui, monsieur. C'est une voie Space est tres magnific!

Or somthing like that...


alikb


Dec 20, 2004, 1:38 AM
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Re: Suggestions for the WEML [In reply to]
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New Dawn is great. All easy clean aid with a few tricky sections here and there. It would be a good choice if you're looking for a quality line that doesn't get done too much. Might not be a great route for a winter ascent though as the pitches below EC Tower will probably turn into a waterfall in a storm. Above EC Tower the route is fairly sheltered, although as lambone mentioned icefall could be an issue...
I think of the routes you've suggested, WEML is probably the most sheltered overall, but it's got a lot of sketchy dowel ladders :wink: , not sure if your into that sorta thing. If you do New Dawn just get up to EC Tower as quickly as possible and you'll be fine.
Be sure to bring a rivet kit on either of these routes in case you blow one of the dowels.
Mescalito could still be a good option.
I can give beta on New Dawn if you want it.

-Alik


justsendingits


Dec 29, 2004, 11:59 PM
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Did not WOEML get the chop by Jim Beyer this year?
Check it out at ST.


bringmedeath


Jan 1, 2005, 7:18 PM
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Mescalito seemed fairly protected... but I still got soaked a few times. These were just little afternoon rainstorms, so I'd imagine that in a real storm you could be pretty soaked depending on where you are on the route. Bring lots of cams!!!


guanoboy


Jan 2, 2005, 5:49 AM
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I should be narrowing my search, but i'm now thinking about Sunkist and the Shield.

Anyone want to put their two-bits in on New Dawn vs. Sunkist vs. the Shield for a winter ascent?

thanks


lambone


Jan 2, 2005, 7:25 AM
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are you going to solo? how many days are you planning to be up there?

if more then three or four I would recomend sticking to the steep routes on the east side.

there is a pretty crazy story somewhere on the net about a couple of guys almost drownding on the last pitch of the Shield. If a storm came in in the winter you'd need ice tools to top out on that pitch.

no that it can't be done, just watch your ass.

Pete has some beta on Sunkist and can be found over on Supertopo.


ammon


Jan 18, 2005, 9:14 AM
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I've done Sunkist, WOEML and The Shield.

Every one of those routes are going to be VERY serious in a winter storm. Sunkist would be the easiest to bail from if the shit-hits-the-fan. The Shield wouldn't be too bad either but you'd have to aid/directional the roof.

WOEML has some mandatory run-out free climbing and a few extra pendulms were there is chopped rivets. Also, if you do this route bring about 15 #1 (the smallest0) wired hangers. I think some pretty big whips would occur if anything blew.

As far as quality I think Sunkist is the one. I'll have to agree with Alpinstylist, however. South Seas is one of the best lines I've done.


Cheers-


iamthewallress


Jan 19, 2005, 7:38 PM
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I've never climbed the Sheild, but I've watched the amazing plumes of water form up there a few times when doing winter cragging at the base.

If you're scoping that one, be sure to check it out at night. For some reason that one of the more weather savvy could probably explain, it can be fairly dry during the day, but really starts pounding from that vacinity at night during run-off season even in otherwise lovely weather.


iamthewallress


Jan 19, 2005, 7:39 PM
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I've never climbed the Sheild, but I've watched the amazing plumes of water form up there a few times when doing winter cragging at the base.

If you're scoping that one, be sure to check it out at night. For some reason that one of the more weather savvy could probably explain, it can be fairly dry during the day, but really starts pounding from that vacinity at night during run-off season even in otherwise lovely weather.


iamthewallress


Jan 19, 2005, 7:43 PM
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I've never climbed the Sheild, but I've watched the amazing plumes of water form up there a few times when doing winter cragging at the base.

If you're scoping that one, be sure to check it out at sundown. For some reason that one of the more weather savvy could probably explain, it can be fairly dry during the day, but really starts pounding from that vacinity at night during run-off season even in otherwise lovely weather.


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