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yankeebama
Jan 6, 2005, 2:24 PM
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I currently just have Mocasins which are great for sport climbs and gym climbing. I want a shoe that I can jam in and stay in longer.
Any suggestions?
David
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trenchdigger
Jan 6, 2005, 2:31 PM
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I'm not sure you can beat the sportiva Mythos for an all around trad shoe.
The montrail Splitter is also a good pick for a little more support and padding all around.
~Adam~
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vegastradguy
Jan 6, 2005, 3:24 PM
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the 5.10 Hueco used to be a nice shoe...havent tried the latest model.
cant count the number of folks i've met who swear by the mythos...
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j_ung
Jan 6, 2005, 3:53 PM
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I'm a fan of the splitter, to be sure. If you can afford it, EVOLV will customize a crack shoe for you, too.
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eastvillage
Jan 6, 2005, 3:55 PM
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5.10 Newtons
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greengoblin
Jan 6, 2005, 4:56 PM
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I am a big fan of Boreal Aces. The board last provides excellent support, and the thick leather pads teh foot a bit. I have recently started wearing Mocassyms, and think they are one of teh best shoes I have ever worn. They are comfortable, the flexibility allows them to conform to any size crack, and they smear great.
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petsfed
Jan 6, 2005, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: I'm not sure you can beat the sportiva Mythos for an all around trad shoe. The montrail Splitter is also a good pick for a little more support and padding all around. ~Adam~
You know why everybody swears by the Mythos? Its comfortable. If you are, however, needing a more capable shoe for miles of offwidths, or perhaps a more supportive shoe for loads of edging, the Mythos is next to useless.
Despite the fact that the Mythos is one of the softest and most genericly designed shoes, it remains popular because nearly anybody can comfortably wear them. That's their secret. A good portion of the hard trad climbers I know don't care for them if they need to do anything other than unending buckets and hand cracks. The other ones have never been able to get a pair to fit.
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yankeebama
Jan 7, 2005, 2:19 AM
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So, Petfed, what do you suggest?
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gnubbs
Jan 7, 2005, 2:29 AM
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I got a pair of Boreal Ballet Golds this past summer, and I really love them for long days. They are board lasted, and are a pretty stiff shoe which is an aweful nice feature on the sixth or seventh pitch up. They are also cut pretty high which helps me now gnar up my ankles as much. (Sure, better footwork would probably do just as much...)
But, as everyone always says, get the shoes that fit. Luckily, I live in Boulder, so I just went to Neptunes and tried on every pair of shoes on the wall in a size or two. Granted it took about 2 hours and the girl who was helping looked like she was about to strangle me, but I did find the shoes that fit me the absolute best.
good luck finding the right shoe.
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barefooter
Jan 7, 2005, 2:38 AM
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I love my Boreal Spiders. I can wear them all day comfortably, the rubber is pretty sticky for smearing, but as far as cracks go they are great. Plus the rubber has lasted a long time.
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catbiter
Jan 7, 2005, 3:18 AM
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I wear my Katanas (sportiva). They streched and now I can wear them for days without discomfort and they still edge well. For cracks, they hurt my toes a little but not much.
~just my 2 cents. if you read my other posts, you'll find that's the only shoe brand that fits my foot.
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trenchdigger
Jan 7, 2005, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm not sure you can beat the sportiva Mythos for an all around trad shoe. The montrail Splitter is also a good pick for a little more support and padding all around. ~Adam~ You know why everybody swears by the Mythos? Its comfortable. If you are, however, needing a more capable shoe for miles of offwidths, or perhaps a more supportive shoe for loads of edging, the Mythos is next to useless. Despite the fact that the Mythos is one of the softest and most genericly designed shoes, it remains popular because nearly anybody can comfortably wear them. That's their secret. A good portion of the hard trad climbers I know don't care for them if they need to do anything other than unending buckets and hand cracks. The other ones have never been able to get a pair to fit.
What did the original poster ask for?
In reply to: I want a shoe that I can jam in and stay in longer.
~Adam~
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bobd1953
Jan 7, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Two words for you...EVOLV QUEST
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mbg
Jan 7, 2005, 9:04 PM
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As others have said, you can hang out in Mythos for weeks on end but it's beyond me why so many people think they are a good crack shoe. They're ok for finger cracks but anything bigger is extremely painful since they're so soft.
I recommend the sportiva Focus if you can still get your hands on them. Last time I checked, they were selling them for less than $100 on their website since they are being dropped from the line. It's a good shoe for everything but smearing and stiff enough to climb Indian Creek cracks all day.
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forkliftdaddy
Jan 7, 2005, 9:25 PM
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I use a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Mesas for cracks and multi-pitch. I don't size them too tight -- toes almost flat -- and they still edge on almost nothing. They smear well after they break in, if you can get them to break in without the midsole coming through the sole. 5.10 discontinued them. That makes 'em cheap, but hard to find.
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drkayak
Jan 7, 2005, 10:18 PM
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I wear Mythos for thin crack and hard face climbing routes. For wide crack I have the Scarpa Generators. Boreal Ace and Sportiva Kaculators or Mega are similar shoes. I prefer a board lasted shoe with a low flat toe that you can get into a crack.
The Sportiva Focus has a big toe box and a slingshot rand. I don't like them for crack. Great edging shoe.
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jowanky
Jan 7, 2005, 10:20 PM
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i hear the scarpa marathon is really good.
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enjoimx
Jan 8, 2005, 3:33 AM
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EVOLV Bandits
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crimp2bfree
Jan 8, 2005, 4:06 AM
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I just bought a pair of EVOLV Bandits with the extra rubber over the toe. I got them 1/2 size bigger than my Kaos. A friend of my got the same thing a month or so ago, said they were great, but hasn't climbed in them much yet. Haven't gotten my, seems like they should be great.
-Matt
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extrasketch
Jan 8, 2005, 5:36 AM
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You don't need some beefy shoe for multi slippers will get the job done. Mocs my all time favorite, awesome for multipitch. Just take you heel out at each belay. I currently use venoms for multipitch routes near my limit they work okay. If only mocs didn't wear out so fast.
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petsfed
Jan 8, 2005, 6:02 AM
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In reply to: So, Petfed, what do you suggest?
I wear moccasyms when I'm climbing easier and/or shorter stuff, or when I need the better rubber. My katanas did well until they began the long, slow descent into perforation. Get something with a midsole to begin with. After that, what fits comfortably. You shouldn't have to pick a shoe based soley on the fact that it will eventually stretch to fit your foot. If you can't climb hard right out of the box, you bought the wrong shoe.
Mythos are neither an aggressive, nor especially stiff shoe, two things you want from a shoe regardless of what you're climbing, so long as you're climbing at a high standard. Anybody can crank out a 5.10 in mythos because they fit the way any general purpose shoe should. When you start climbing at a high standard, you want a shoe that can edge well that's fitted well for jamming. No matter how well fitted it is, the mythos will always suck at edging. Moreover, unless you're wearing plastic boots, relative stiffness doesn't affect smearing. Any shoe can (and does) smear equally well. So why get a softer shoe if there's a stiffer shoe that's just as sensitive, if you're planning for longer routes? I love my moccasyms, but I'll replace them with Anasazi Velcros and Muiras just as soon as I can afford it. And I rarely clip bolts!
To summarize:
Crack and/or multipitch shoes are a function of fit, not design.
Intentionally buying softer/less aggressive shoes indicates either inexperience or the desire to climb comfortably at a lower standard.
Stiff, well fitted shoes are more comfortable for longer climbs than soft, well fitted shoes.
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areuinclimber
Jan 8, 2005, 7:06 AM
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im pretty much a fan of ... well every shoe on the market, even ones you've never heard of. so happy researching!
oh im sorry im just trying to summarize every shoe thread into one nice, short post.
on a serious note just get a shoe that is board lasted for the foot support, has a sole that extends somewhat up around the tops of the toes on the inside, is comfortable , and fits your budget.
have a good day
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yankeebama
Jan 9, 2005, 10:37 PM
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Thanks everybody for the help.
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ozi_tradi
Jan 13, 2005, 1:07 AM
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id go with the mythos theyr comfy and quite sensitive andhav enough toe rand for toe jams
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bones
Jan 13, 2005, 1:17 AM
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shoes i've used and like:
five-ten ascents- comfy, good all-around performer, not so good heel
mythos- comfy, low toe profile to slip into thin cracks, not so good edging
mad rock frenzy lace-up(my new favorite)- comfy, low toe profile, stiff sole good for edging, but not very sensitive.
Of course, I've only used these on routes 5.11 and easier.
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