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BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c
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jt512


Jan 11, 2005, 9:19 PM
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BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c
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As reported on supertopo.com:

In reply to:
MEN, BURT BRONSON HERE. I HAVE RETURNED FROM ANOTHER EPIC, YET SUCCESSFUL STAY IN BAFFIN. OUR TEAM (CONSISTING OF ONLY ME) COMPLETED 17 NEW ROUTES. THE HARDEST, "WHY WOMEN SHOULD STAY AT HOME", WAS COMPLETED OVER 84 DAYS. THIS IS, SO FAR, THE BOLDEST ROUTE YET DONE ON THE ISLAND. AT 5.14C, A5++, PDH, WI 13, M14+, GRADE IX, V14, B3, SIT START, THIS ROUTE WAS DONE GROUND UP WITH NO HOLES DRILLED ON THE ASCENT. THE ROUTE WAS ESTABLISHED IN PURE ALPINE STYLE WITH ME STAYING ON THE WALL FOR THE ENTIRE 84 DAYS. I LOST 77 POUNDS ON THE WALL. THE LINE CONSISTS OF 114 PITCHES AND GOES UP A NEWLY DISCOVERED WALL THAT ONLY I HAVE SEEN. ACCORDING TO MY MEASUREMENTS, THE WALL IS THE TALLEST AND MOST OVERHANGING WALL IN THE WORLD. AT 17,000 SHEER VERTICAL FEET AND OVERHANGING 9,000 FEET, IT IS SURE TO NEVER HAVE A REPEAT - ESPECIALLY BY A WOMAN. THIS ROUTE EPITOMIZES THE HARD MAN CLIMBING EXPERIENCE.

PLEASE, GET ME CAUGHT UP ON THE LASTEST GOINGS ON HERE IN THE STATES AND IN THE VALLEY PROPER. WORD HAS IT THAT NOT MUCH HAS HAPPENED, WHICH IS SAD, IN THE TIME I HAVE BEEN GONE. A SOMEWHAT NOTABLE ASCENT BY THE GERMAN BROTHERS WAS DONE ON THE ZODIAC (WHATEVER), I HEARD SOME GIRL CLIMBED EL CAP FREE (SURE SHE DID....), DEAN POTTER ROYALLY F'ED UP AND LOST BOTH HANDS (STICK TO THE SLACK LINE, SLACKER), ANOTHER CHICK CLIMBED 5.14D (SURE SHE DID......) AND CHRIS SHARMA WAS BUSTED FOR WEED (NICE). SOUNDS LIKE I DIDN'T MISS MUCH.

AS MANY OF YOU KNOW, I AM THE LAST BASTION OF THE HARD MAN. MY GOAL IS TWO FOLD - TO CONTINUE IN THE TRADITION OF THE MANY HARD MEN WHO LAID THE FOUNDATION FOR CLIMBING AND TO ENSURE THAT THESE TRADTIONS ARE NOT OVER RUN BY THE GIRLY MEN AND WOMEN WHO ARE TRYING HARD TO DEGRADE OUR SPORT WITH THE USE OF BOLTS, 70 METER ROPES, GRIGRIS, RUBBER SOLED SHOES, CHALK, AND QUICKS-DRAWS. IT IS ALSO EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO ENSURE THAT THE MAN SPORT OF CLIMBING STAYS JUST THAT - A MAN SPORT - AND THAT WOMEN STAY AT HOME, IN THE SERVICE OF THE MAN.

SINCERELY,
BURT BRONSON
THE LAST BASTION OF THE HARD MAN.


climber49er


Jan 11, 2005, 9:36 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Wow! That's bold. Hats off to BURT BRONSON. :lol:


keinangst


Jan 11, 2005, 9:46 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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meh. I bet it gets downgraded.


blueeyedclimber


Jan 12, 2005, 2:11 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Burt who? Is he related to Charles?


couchwarrior


Jan 12, 2005, 2:53 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Bronson was belaying me while toporoping one day. I got halfway up and he tied me off and pleasured my woman on the rope tarp. The weird thing? I didn't mind one bit!


Partner j_ung


Jan 12, 2005, 3:00 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Looks like ST crowd is doing its level best to make BB its bitch.


dirtineye


Jan 12, 2005, 3:08 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Rumor has it that BURT is a serious sandbagger, if you can believe that. Every person I have talked to who has actually met BURT says that if BURT pegs the route at 14c, it's probably 15 or harder. WHAT A MAN. Not only a great climber, but modest as well.


bonin_in_the_boneyard


Jan 12, 2005, 3:17 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Yeah, he climbs like a man, but he throws like a girl. He can't grow a beard either.

I hear his parents still call him 'Scooter' too.


couchwarrior


Jan 12, 2005, 3:22 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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He shoots whiskey into his neck with a syringe. The Bronson family crest is a picture of a barracuda eating Yvon Chouinard. I once saw him scissor kick Angela Lansbury.


keinangst


Jan 12, 2005, 3:37 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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I saw Burt do "the flag" on a Nose free solo. But he did it hands off, with his teeth.

And I noticed that the March issue of Climbing had an article about an expedition to some "untouched" rock in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. They carefully omitted the part about the climbers finding Burt at the top, enjoying some polar bear jerky. Stupid censorship.


noshoesnoshirt


Jan 12, 2005, 5:31 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I once saw him scissor kick Angela Lansbury.

I was gonna say something witty, but I don't think I could possibly top this.


dingus


Jan 12, 2005, 5:34 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I once saw him scissor kick Angela Lansbury.

I was gonna say something witty, but I don't think I could possibly top this.

How about:

"I KNOW BURT BRONSON. BURT BRONSON IS A FRIEND OF MINE. YOU SIR ARE NO BURT BRONSON."

DMT


dynosore


Jan 12, 2005, 6:10 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Anyone care to clue us NOOBS in to who this mythical man is?


bonin_in_the_boneyard


Jan 12, 2005, 6:12 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Anyone care to clue us NOOBS in to who this mythical man is?

Duh, he's like, totally the last Bastian of the Hardman.


yosemite


Jan 12, 2005, 8:14 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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If you have to ask, you can't afford knowing.


jt512


Jan 12, 2005, 8:17 PM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Anyone care to clue us NOOBS in to who this mythical man is?

BURT BRONSON is one of the most accomplished climbers on the Internet. As an example, here is one trip report he posted to the newsgroup rec.climbing:

In reply to:
HI NG. BURT BRONSON HERE. SINCE THIS NG IS GOING DOWNHILL, I THOUGHT I WOULD GRACE EVERYONE WITH SOME EXCELLENT WRITING AND TO ALSO HELP EVERYONE TRY TO IMAGINE WHAT IT MUST BE LIKE TO BE A SERIOUS VALLEY CLIMBER LIKE ME. MOST PEOPLE JUST HAVE NO IDEA, SO I THOUGHT I WOULD RECORD MY EXPERIENCES FOR THE 99.99 NON-SERIOUS CLIMBERS OUT THERE IN THE CYBER WORLD. ENJOY!

AS YOU ALL KNOW, I AM THE LAST BASTION OF THE SERIOUS CLIMBER. THEREFORE, MY GOALS IN THE VALLEY WERE FAR MORE SERIOUS THAN WHAT YOU PEOPLE HAVE. MY OBJECTIONS FOR THIS TRIP WERE:

1) ASTROMAN IN SUB 3 HOURS WITH ONLY 3 NUTS, AND 2 CAMS - LINKING WITH CREST JEWEL AND A DOWN CLIMB OF ROYAL ARCHES TO THE DEVIL POOLS - TOTAL CLIMB TIME TO NAKED TIME AT THE POOLS: 6 HOURS

2) SOLO OF STECK-SALATHE BESTING HENERY BARBER'S TIME OF 2:45

3) SOLO OF THE GOOD BOOK WITH NO HELMET WHILE DODGING LOOSE AND FALLING ROCK

4) FREEBLAST BEFORE CURRY BREAKFAST BUFFET OPENS WHILE GETTING COMPLETELY HAMMERED THE NIGHT BEFORE

5) PANTY RAID OF THE HUBERS FIXED LEDGE ON ZODIAC WHILE ASCENDING THE ROUTE IN SUB 8 HOURS SOLO

6) THE ROSTRUM TO THE ALIEN FINISH WHILE TAMING A PERIGRINE FALCON NESTING THERE TO BRING HOME AS A PET

7) SOLO OF GENERATOR CRACK IN RUNNING SHOES WHILE ON REST DAY/MORNING JOG TO TUOLOMNE AND BACK

8) SMOKE AND DRINK BEER FROM BROWN BAG ON THE PIZZA DECK WHILE SCAVAGING PIZZA AND DODGING THE YCS EMPLOYEES

9) SANDBAG THE NUMOURUS FIRST TIME WALL CLIMBERS WITH BAD WEATHER BETA AT THE START OF THE NOSE TO TEST THEIR SERIOUSNESS

10) SMOKE MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF WEED WITH CHONGO AND THEN TELL HIM HE'S GOT RELATIVITY ALL WRONG

AS YOU WOULD HAVE GUESSED, ALL GOALS WERE COMPLETED AND ACTUALLY SURPASSED. MY TIME ON ASTROMAN WAS 2:20:43 AND WAS NAKED WITH COCK IN HAND AT 4:53:32. MY TIME ON STECK-SALATHE WAS 1:23:21. I SUCESSFULLY DODGED FALLING ROCK ON THE GOOD BOOK AND EVEN MANAGED ANOTHER SLIDE! FREEBLAST WAS A JOKE BUT BREAKFAST WAS GREAT. I HAVE MUCH OF THE HUBERS GEAR AND A NEW SOLO RECORD FOR ZODIAC. MY PET FALCONS NAME IS BECKEY. I'VE DOWNGRADED THE GENERATOR TO 5.3+. I OWNED THE PIZZA DECK. NO NOSE GUMBIES PASSED MY TEST, WHICH IS GOOD, AS I DIDN'T FEEL LIKE RESCUEING PEOPLE ON THIS TRIP. CHONGO HAS ACCEPTED HE KNOWS NOTHING OF RELATIVITY AND CONFESSED THAT HIS BOOK IS A SCAM - AS A SIDE NOTE, HE DID HAVE REALLY GOOD WEED.

BURT BRONSON THE LAST BASTION OF THE SERIOUS CLIMBER


jgill


Jan 13, 2005, 12:13 AM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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Had Burt Bronson been around in the 1950s, I would have traded in my climbing boots for a set of golf clubs. What a man . . . None of us "beefy" climbers could have come close to measuring up to his physique. Poor Largo, he would have been so demoralized in the 1970s he would have put all his considerable efforts into scuba diving. Royal, on the other hand, would probably have confronted Bronson on an intellectual level . . . and perhaps might have triumphed. Who knows? 8^)


benpullin


Jan 13, 2005, 12:20 AM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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My personal favorite from rec.climbing, I believe.

In reply to:
PLEASE - I ENCOURAGE YOU TO LOG OFF YOUR COMPUTER AND SELL ALL OF YOUR "CLIP DRAWS", YOUR CLIMBING "SLIPPERS", YOUR 9.2MM ROPE AND FIND SOME THREAD AND NEEDLE AND LEARN TO KNIT LIKE A LADY. LEAVE THE MAN FUN TO THE MAN.

:lol: :lol: :lol:


benpullin


Jan 13, 2005, 12:21 AM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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My personal favorite from rec.climbing, I believe.

In reply to:
PLEASE - I ENCOURAGE YOU TO LOG OFF YOUR COMPUTER AND SELL ALL OF YOUR "CLIP DRAWS", YOUR CLIMBING "SLIPPERS", YOUR 9.2MM ROPE AND FIND SOME THREAD AND NEEDLE AND LEARN TO KNIT LIKE A LADY. LEAVE THE MAN FUN TO THE MAN.

:lol:


Partner polarwid


Jan 13, 2005, 12:29 AM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
...rock in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. They carefully omitted the part about the climbers finding Burt at the top, enjoying some polar bear jerky...

Even more amazing is that he found the ONLY polar bear in Antarctica, and killed it with his BARE HANDS...

He then proceeded to skin it with his teeth and freeze-dried (pun intended) the meat...


mei


Jan 13, 2005, 12:51 AM
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So, is it true that he never wears climbing shoes (stick rubber) and never uses chalk? Regardless, his accomplishment is amazing.


yosemite


Jan 13, 2005, 1:27 AM
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In reply to:
Had Burt Bronson been around in the 1950s, I would have traded in my climbing boots for a set of golf clubs.

'Nuff said. Case closed.


corporatedog


Jan 13, 2005, 2:10 AM
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In reply to:
Anyone care to clue us NOOBS in to who this mythical man is?

"there's a sucker born every minute" P.T. Barnum


jt512


Jan 13, 2005, 3:18 AM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Had Burt Bronson been around in the 1950s, I would have traded in my climbing boots for a set of golf clubs.

That is so going to get quoted.

-Jay


dingus


Jan 13, 2005, 3:21 AM
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Re: BURT BRONSON FAs Hardest Route on Baffin - 5.14c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Had Burt Bronson been around in the 1950s, I would have traded in my climbing boots for a set of golf clubs.

That is so going to get quoted.

-Jay

Great thread Jay. Well done man!

DMT

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