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1800lotions
Feb 2, 2005, 4:23 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2005
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Perhaps the true test of any sport climber is the ability to travel and climb well. So many "hard men" are the product of their silly idea of greatness that begins and ends in their ability to fire routes at their home cliff. How many of you can actually climb at your local level on a road trip to unfamiliar crags? Does not include Red River, Jacks Canyon or Owens river due to their poor technical requirements. Bouldering is not route climbing so does not apply!
If you are from Ohio and climb 5.13 at the Red we all know that you will get destroyed at Smith so lets just stop there...
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skecthballer
Feb 2, 2005, 4:39 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
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i destroy places when i go on road trips, the vee2's at my local spot would be considered v4 or v5 in hueco or any other places where weak people climb. i also destroy on routes when i travel too. This is not a joke.
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1800lotions
Feb 2, 2005, 4:43 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2005
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I should have mentioned that Bouldering does not apply....Sounds like you are really the man though!!!! I have never heard of ya!
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skecthballer
Feb 2, 2005, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
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Dude dont be bashing boldering jsut becasue you can't climb hard. I also climb trad and spurt.
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bouldrinsoill
Feb 2, 2005, 6:19 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2003
Posts: 109
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what the hell kinda poll is this... Why not instead of 6 differnt options: better worse or same... damn... makin shit to confusing... :x gotta read that like 10 times to figure out which one to click. Or how 'bout a plain ol yes or no....
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bilias
Feb 2, 2005, 6:33 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2004
Posts: 104
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Hey man, was the name 'sketchballer' already taken or did you just flat out spell it wrong?
You can answer my question when we meet up at the 'spurt' climbing crag.
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thomasribiere
Feb 2, 2005, 10:31 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
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I usually climb better while traveling for a simple reason : my climbing trips are often 7-10 consecutive days of climbing, which never happens at home. So after a few days I do climb better than usual.
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peroxide
Feb 2, 2005, 1:14 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 117
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As a working professional...vacation is a sparse commodity. I find that I am so focused to make the very most out of my trips along with the fact that I vent stress through kicking a** on some route that I think it is enevitable that I end up climbing better.
Even though I am pretty motivated guy...the local problem is always just that.....its local. The sense of urgency just isnt there. I sometimes try to force the urgency but hey...I am human.
Perfect example is when I lived in Texas. I knew I probably would not be back in Texas for while when I moved to Europe and would need to make the most of my time there. There was a V3 highball problem at Rogers Park that I was dying to do. But no luck. I get the contract saying I am leaving in two months and I started sending my projects like crazy. This is coming from a guy who is pretty much a V1 climber with the occasional V2 and once in a blue moon a V3. It just started connecting.
Maybe this is why transient climbers do so well
P
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numbnut
Feb 2, 2005, 1:45 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2004
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I took that poll to mean any kind of climbing. I generally go trad climbing and it takes a few days to get comfortable enough in any area to really start pushing oneself. So in the end I do think I climb the same on roadtrips. It just takes time to get used to whatever rock you are climbing.
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jammer
Feb 2, 2005, 1:46 PM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
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During my little run around the few areas that I have climbed at, I find no differance. Maybe it's because I haven't gotten out of New England. This should change this year!
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1800lotions
Feb 2, 2005, 2:41 PM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: Jan 15, 2005
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This isnt a diss on Bouldering or gym climbing but merely a poll to determined travelling route effectiveness. Don't let your fragile ego get inflamed. That is exactly what this poll was designed to identify. Trad, Aid, Sport and mixed...Ice etc...... Let us know!
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phaedrus
Feb 2, 2005, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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Does it count if you smell just as beastly when you travel vs. when you stay at your home crag? :wink:
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kristibobclimbs
Feb 4, 2005, 6:16 AM
Post #13 of 18
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Registered: Feb 4, 2005
Posts: 5
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I started climbing in Chico,Ca and found getting away from home a little tricky.Fortunately there's a nice little climbing spot nearby(Grizzly Dome,anybody...anybody?)So I was climbing as often as possible.My first trip out of town was a truly humbling experience. I discovered,much to my dismay,that when climbing in other locations the ratings are far more difficult."Yeah, sure I can lead a 11b,no prob!" :oops: Ha! boy did i suck! Ah well ya live and ya learn.(Don't get me wrong,Grizzly dome is a rockin little fun spot to climb.The granite is super nice on the hands and very grippy.But it definitley has the potential to make you soft if your not careful!)Here's to future climbing trips and becoming a badass! :D
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billcoe_
Feb 17, 2005, 8:57 PM
Post #14 of 18
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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Thomas R answered for me. Even a week solid at like Jtree and I can start refining what it takes to slip better, which results in a higher grade. Unfortunatley, as I age, I notice the effect much less.
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sinshan
Feb 17, 2005, 9:19 PM
Post #15 of 18
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Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
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Seems like this is partly a discussion about "grades" and whether they mean the same things in different places, regardless of your skill. Though the type of climbing you get "used to" from your local crag (is it lots of hand jams? Slopers? Edging?) definitely will impact how "good" you feel on a far away crag that's the total opposite type of rock.
Trad crags: These seem the most consistent to me. I've often found that trad routes from one crag to another are the most closely rated in terms of difficulty.
Sport crags: All over the map. A smith rock 5.8 translates to a Malibu Canyon 5.10 translates to a Beacon Rock 5.6
Gyms - - A Portland Rock Gym 5.10 translates to a Berkeley Ironworks 5.12.
Bouldering - - I don't even try to compare. I mean, c'mon.
t.
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kansasclimber
Feb 17, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 541
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Since I am the best in the world, I do not think this post applies to me. I wreck any boulder i come across. I destroy every wall I see. I climb put up FA's everywhere I go. Getting better has been an ongoing process for me know for a while. I cannot plateau. I am the BEST IN THE WORLD. I think its great, cause Im from Kansas, who would have guessed it?? Im glad that everyone now realizes this on this site too.
Stephen
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sinshan
Feb 17, 2005, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
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In reply to: Since I am the best in the world, I do not think this post applies to me. I wreck any boulder i come across. I destroy every wall I see. I climb put up FA's everywhere I go. Getting better has been an ongoing process for me know for a while. I cannot plateau. I am the BEST IN THE WORLD. I think its great, cause Im from Kansas, who would have guessed it?? Im glad that everyone now realizes this on this site too. Stephen
sometimes it seems like you're just talking to yourself.
Kansasclimber - - a study in "self-talk." I'm going to try and get some grant funds to conduct a study on the impact of expressive ego on climbing ability.
Which is a fancy way of saying I'm going to get public funds to go climbing with Kansasclimber
t.
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kansasclimber
Feb 18, 2005, 12:30 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 541
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I do not know if your worthy, bring 3 gifts, and if they are good enough, then maybe you can watch...
Stephen
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