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johnhenry
Jun 17, 2002, 4:43 AM
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In a great short story called "Articulo Mortis" written by one of our newest forum members, the intrepid Russ Walling, he mentions a device called "a friction hook." Is this a fictional device or perhaps another name for something we know???
http://www.fishproducts.com/mbs/Articulo.html
[ This Message was edited by: johnhenry on 2002-06-16 21:44 ]
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punk
Jun 17, 2002, 4:50 PM
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All I can think of is a RURP or any other drive-in or hook siting in a crack not really driven in and stable …Just hanging there by slim friction rather then being set
Still very eerie story …to what length people are ready to go in the name of style
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kman
Jun 19, 2002, 7:03 AM
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whoa!
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russwalling
Jun 19, 2002, 7:08 AM
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Hey ya,
The friction hook is top secret.....
but..... think of a slab of C4 Stealth rubber mounted to a metal plate about 4 inches long and able to flex side to side. All this is mounted on a short "arm" about the length of a FISH Hook.... clip in, apply weight, and welcome to the afterlife..... if it blows.
adios,
Russ
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russwalling
Jun 19, 2002, 7:14 AM
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also from the top secret drawer.....
the lead head.... like a copperhead but lead... and you use a mini torch to melt it into the crack. Keeps you under the umbrella called "hammerless aid".
"try it sometime"
Russ
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punk
Jun 19, 2002, 7:45 AM
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Russ,
The "Friction hook", did it ever worked? If it did, what was the success ratio? Meaning, of 10 times that it being placed how many times it popped out
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punk
Jun 19, 2002, 7:50 AM
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From now on I only will climb Volcanoes wall when there is volcanic activity it seems that it will make my heading technique flawless… the heat only will make the heads stick better…
And added bonus…No need for a bounce test
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-06-19 00:53 ]
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bigwalling
Jun 19, 2002, 1:54 PM
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Dude that friction thing sounds pretty cool. I have been trying to use duct tape instead of drilling but it isn't working so swell. I have heard of the lead head. It is a eruopean thing. They work good in really open corners with no seam in them.
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addiroids
Jun 21, 2002, 8:58 PM
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I was wondering the same thing. Russ, you are truely a mad man. Thanks for clarifying. Also, the Lead Head sounds like a cool idea. But I can't wait to see those on the updated topo:
Iron Hawk (VI A4/C1)
Rack: ... 1ea Blowtorch
Scary stuff.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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bigwalling
Jun 21, 2002, 11:02 PM
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Here is a link for lead heads. I knew I had seen them on some site. I also heard about them in one of the American Alpine Journals. I think it was of an ascent of Amin Brakk in the trango area.
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passthepitonspete
Jun 26, 2002, 3:53 PM
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I have used lead heads on my ascent of Jolly Roger, and they are emphatically The Shit.
Thanks for the link, Jake.
However, I did NOT use a frickin' blowtorch, mate. I just welded 'em in with the end of my hammer. They came in three types - soft, medium and hard - and will hold in a micro-divot that you would not even consider using with a traditional alumihead.
I have concerns about the ability to clean them, though - they look pretty "welder" and my placements had this look of permanence to them!
Russ:
1. Do you now make these things?
2. Please tell me this is a joke about the blowtorch, right? [Duh.]
3. Are they cleanable?
If you make 'em, Russ, I'll buy a bunch off ya. You've supported me SO WELL over the years, I'll give you the business.
But if you don't make 'em, then I'm all about Barrabes.
Cheers,
Pete
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bigwalling
Jun 26, 2002, 4:01 PM
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Good to know someone reccomends these things. The lead heads I have been trying to make have stuck in things so well! I just got to make a stronger clip in point.
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russwalling
Jun 27, 2002, 12:10 AM
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>>Pete writes:
>>1. Do you now make these things?
Nope...
>>2. Please tell me this is a joke
>>about the blowtorch, right? [Duh.]
usually only needed for cleaning
>>3. Are they cleanable?
see above.
>>If you make 'em, Russ, I'll buy a bunch off ya. You've supported me SO WELL over the years, I'll give you the business. >But if you don't make 'em, then I'm all about Barrabes. <<
Keep us posted on how they work out....
adios,
Russ
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