Gear : Reviews
Reviews by bazirker (5)
ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.46/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: bazirker, 2005-08-26
I love this device. The teeth are great for extra friction, and if someone is on belay that doesn't like them, just turn it around and use it like a normal ATC. I see no reason to even continue manufacturing the plain ATC, this device is well worth the extra couple bucks. w00t.
Corax Climbing/Mountaineering Harness (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.45/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable
Review
Review by: bazirker, 2005-08-26
This is a pretty sweet harness for gym and sport climbing. Pros: Really easy to get on and off, easy to adjust, not too hot, generally comfy, nice gera loops, lightweight, and it's right purdy. Cons: Occasionally pinches me around my crotch, but that's rare...it really is a comfy harness. My main complaint is the lack of a rear gear loop. Someone needs to tap the fellas at Petzl on the shoulder and let them know that it's nice to have a rear gear loop for chalkbags and such. There is a little elastic band you can get a chalkbag biner under, but how hard would it be to put a rear gear loop on a $70 harness? Bottom line: If this harness had a rear gear loop, I'd give it a 5. I've had very few moments when this harness bothered me, and I feel no need to have another harness. (Note: I don't climb trad, so I have no idea how good it'd be for hauling lots of gear. The gear loops are rated at 5 kg.)
Zealot (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.21/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro
Review
Review by: bazirker, 2005-08-26
Probably Montrail's best known shoe. I sized these a size and a half below my street shoe size. Pros: They edge pretty well, the toe is stiff and aggressive from the downturned footbed. They're fairly solid performance shoes as long as you're not doing a lot of smearing. Cons: Where to start....they're uncomfortable and gave me major blisters the first few times I wore them, compared to my Mad Rocks they smell like hell, they don't smear well because of the downturned footbed, and the break in period takes forever. But their main issue is durability, I'd give these a 3 if it wasn't for their poor resilience. These things started falling apart on me after less than 10 hours of climbing, and I've seen a bunch of other people with disintegrating Zealots. The glue holding the bottom thing of rubber to the base of the shoe is terrible, and comes undone. The rubber is wearing away between the rand and the bottom as if I was picking at it with my pocketknife. The rubber covering the rand quickly peels away layer by layer. These shoes fell apart on me really fast, and I'm very unimpressed by the Montrail brand. I have a friend who bought Montrail Methods with me when I got my Zealots and his shoes fell apart even faster than mine. Bottom line: If you don't mind uncomfortable feet and super gluing your shoes together, these are great shoes. But if you're like everyone else on the planet and want your shoes to actually last you more than one weekend's worth, avoid these. I'd give them a 1 if it wasn't for them climbing well before they started vaporizing.
Frenzy Velcro (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.14/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro
Review
Review by: bazirker, 2005-08-26
I got these about a month ago, and they seem to be holding up alright. I sized them half a size below my street shoe size. Pros: They're about as comfy as a climbing shoe can possibly be, they look kinda cool, they're good for outdoor, low grade bouldering because of the well-padded footbed. I can stand around in these all day without even wanting to take them off; they'd probably make great all-day trad shoes. Cons: They don't climb well on hard stuff. They're very structured shoes so they edge ok, but they aren't response. In the gym, you can give it up trying to stand on small jibs with these. Once you get in the V2/3 range, you're gonna notice these shoes becoming a serious limiting factor. Bottom line: I like these shoes a lot for their comfort. They're great for relaxed bouldering sessions or leisure climbing. But if you need a shoe that's gonna kick some ass, leave these at home, cause this shoe lacks sensitivity and is super mellow.
Hooker Zip
Average Rating : 4.33/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Zipper Shoes
Review
Review by: bazirker, 2005-08-26
I bought these shoes about a year ago and have resoled them once. I sized them half a size below my street shoe size. These are my favorite of my shoes, I highly recommend them...although I feel like the velcro varient is probably more functional. Pros: They smear great, the rubber top is terrific on overhangs, they're easy to get on and off, and they're about as comfy as I can expect from a shoe that will still perform. I love the heel and arch. Cons: DDS climbs ok but isn't durable, a little weak on edging (possibly because the zipper doesn't lock down super tight on your arch, and the DDS isn't great for edging,) ugly as hell, zipper seems to be more of a gimmick and can come unzipped after awhile.