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Reviews by blazesod (6)

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Tri-Nuts (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

med size tri-nuts 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: blazesod, 2006-11-30


After climbing with a basic passive-rack all summer in J-tree, I looked forward to having the options of a hex with the weight of a nut. I think the tri-nut is a great idea in theory.
In practice, it failed to perform as a nut. I purchased 2 different medium size tri-nuts to compliment my most commonly used placements (basically a #8 and #9) nut. I climbed 4 different easy routes I am comfortable on that take passive gear well: White-lightning, Frosty Cone, Mr. Misty Kiss and Men with cows heads. Both tri-nuts were placed on each climb at the best nut placement for a typical huervo or WC rock with a 24" trad runner. I then set the tr-nuts with a full strength jerk. On 5 of the 8 placements, the tri-nut simply pulled out as I climbed past it from 'minimal' upward rope pull. In my opinion they either have too little surface area in contact to "seat" properly or the metal used should be softer for a better hold in granite. They still work well in opposable placements which accounts for the other 3 of 8. Maybe they have a place in aid climbing as they will be easy to clean.


ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: blazesod, 2006-09-05


This is my 3rd belay device and after using it to climb in J-tree for a few weeks I can honestly say, "it does everything I need well." I purchased it specifically for the "reverso" auto-blocking function which is nice. Once I learned to NOT use the high-friction mode, it also works well as a belay/ rappel device. I assume the high friction mode is designed for thinner ropes.


Technical Friends Camming Devices Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: blazesod, 2006-07-03


Purchased a #2 friend:

Pro: Light weight, great tension, good range.

Con: Cost about twice the price of a bargin cam.


Robot Cams (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.23/5 Average Rating : 4.23/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: blazesod, 2006-07-03


Purchased a cam set:

Pro: Great priced cam

Con: Spring tension is a little sloppy on larger cams. Larger cams tend to "walk" easiely.


Camp Exentric Hexes (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: blazesod, 2006-07-03


Purchased a double set of small hexes (pre-wired) and Single Un-slung large hexes.
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Pro: Very affordable alternative to cams. Many placement options. Color coded for easy use.
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Con: Can take longer to place (than cams). Small hexes were more difficult to remove after falling on compared to large nuts.

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