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Reviews by butofcourse (10)

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MOON Board System (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Other

Kicks ass!!! 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: butofcourse, 2010-04-19


The ability to train on high-quality hard problems in my very own garage makes this the best advanced training tool ever -- short of having a personal coach on staff.
It has totally transformed my training.

The problems are very challenging, and that is part of what I like about it.
If you are a beginner, forget about it.
If you are an intermediate climber, you'll probably modify the problems to make them easier.
If you always climb below your max level, love to send, and can't stomach failing, then you won't like the Moon Board.


Climbing DVD - King Lines Average Rating = 4.43/5 Average Rating : 4.43/5

In: Gear: Media: Videos and DVDs: Climbing

The rock climbing movie industry is finally growing up 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: butofcourse, 2007-12-05


The rock climbing movie industry is finally growing up. No more poor quality filming of kids sending route after route on a soundtrack of hip-hop. No more young adults lecturing us on the philosophy of life after having smoked a joint.
The images are fantastic. The struggles are wonderful. The interviews are honest. The soundtrack is engrossing.
I only wish it were longer, or at least that the special features included more footage -- for example, of Moonlight Buttress.


Ultralight Bent Wire Gate Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Cheap and shiny, but poor construction quality 1 out of 5 stars

Review by: butofcourse, 2007-07-30


The batch of 12 straight and curved gates I got had serious quality control issues.

In particular the holes for the wire gates was sloppy -- this resulted in some biners just squeaking, and others looking like the wire might slip out if given a good tug.

I contacted Mad Rock 3 times about my concerns (by phone, by letter, and by email -- even sending them photos of the problems); they either didn't respond, or didn't seem to care.

This is disappointing coming from a company whom I admired for its aggressive pricing; I'm not sure I would to trust my safety to Mad Rock equipment anymore.


Defy Climbing Shoe - Mens (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.94/5 Average Rating : 3.94/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Evolv Defy 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: butofcourse, 2006-12-20


Fit right from the very 1st day, and allowed me to climb strong.
My previous shoes were Mad Rocks Flash. I found that the rubber on these shoes is a little harder. After getting used to them I found that it grips very well, and seems to last forever.
The last is thin, and you can feel it -- the shoe is precise, but soft. It's a workout to climb in them, and I cannot get a good rest stemming.
Overall a very good shoe, but a little too soft for my own taste.


RAVE (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Rave shoes 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: butofcourse, 2006-12-20


I've been climbing for ~18 years, have owned many different shoes. After climbing with my Rave for 1 year I can say that these are probably the best shoes I've ever had.

I have been using them all the time and everywhere: indoors, sport projects, trad cracks, and slab climbing -- single pitch and multi-pitch.
The rubber is sticky and lasts really very well. They are fairly soft and sensitive, but firm enough for edging and stemming.

Based on Evolv's advice I took 1/2 size smaller than my usual size; they were tight at the beginning, but fit perfectly after a week.

As usual the folks at Evolv offered me excellent service and advice when I contacted them with questions about the shoe.

Overall an awesome shoe from a very good company.

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