Gear : Reviews
Reviews by chossmonkey (5)
Classic Rock Climbs No. 07 Devils Tower/Black Hills: Needles, Wyoming and South (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 1.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: chossmonkey, 2006-08-18
All the routes in this book are classics, but you may be lucky to ever find the right line.
Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin by Mike Farris (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.67/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: chossmonkey, 2006-08-18
Evidently this book was never used before it was rated.
While it does have some good ideas like cliff top photos for TR setup and top access crags like the N. Shore it is FULL of misinformation.
This is known as "The Book of Lies". The Devils Lake section has huge mistakes in the cliff face topos. The N. Shore info has many mistakes as well.
It's hard to say if these are the authors fault of just bad publishing by Falcon. I do know the author didn't bother to contact many if any of the First Ascentionists or people who have actually done many of the routes where the gross errors occur.
While it does have some good ideas like cliff top photos for TR setup and top access crags like the N. Shore it is FULL of misinformation.
This is known as "The Book of Lies". The Devils Lake section has huge mistakes in the cliff face topos. The N. Shore info has many mistakes as well.
It's hard to say if these are the authors fault of just bad publishing by Falcon. I do know the author didn't bother to contact many if any of the First Ascentionists or people who have actually done many of the routes where the gross errors occur.
360° Ultimate (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.44/5
In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Protection
Review
Review by: chossmonkey, 2006-02-20
These are by far my favorite screw. They have been slightly updated by making the handle a bit stiffer so it stays folded down when racked, mostly eliminating racking problems. They are a breeze to place, and the hanger will take two biners. I own four and will probably be buying a few more. Actual usable screw length is slightly less than the stated length. My 17's are about 16cm.
Rap Hangers (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 2.20/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Bolts and Hangers
Review
Review by: chossmonkey, 2005-12-19
I really dislike Metolius Rap hangers because, they are tough to clip because they are so thick. Because you need to clip the same hole as the rope is threaded through they can be even tougher to get your biners back out. Their biggest flaw is that they twist the hell out of your rope. Never lower through them because they will twist the rope even more than pulling it through unweighted. On the plus side (if you still use carbon steel bolts) they are made out of Cromoly instead of Stainless. This means the hanger will rust and be a visual sign that the bolt is probably more corroded and needs to be replaced.
Revolver Carabiner (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.25/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Review
Review by: chossmonkey, 2005-12-19
When used properly it's amazing what you can do with just two Revolvers.
At the Gunks I use them regularly to string the short but wandering pitches. Stringing some pitches together without double ropes, once meant not placing much gear and using lots of extra long runners to keep the rope from bending too much. With the Revolvers I routinely make 90 degree doglegs with no rope drag.
At the Gunks I use them regularly to string the short but wandering pitches. Stringing some pitches together without double ropes, once meant not placing much gear and using lots of extra long runners to keep the rope from bending too much. With the Revolvers I routinely make 90 degree doglegs with no rope drag.
