Gear : Reviews
Reviews by david.yount (3)
DriClime Windshirt
Average Rating : 4.17/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: david.yount, 2005-07-09
When the Marmot DriClime Windshirt first came out close to 10 years back, it was revolutionary; truly a testpiece. Now, I give it 2-biners (out of 5-biners) because there have been many similar products developed that I feel are clearly superior.
Mtn Hardwear Featherweight Transition Zip Top. This garment is superior to Marmot DriClime Windshirt in many ways.
.....9 oz instead of 14 oz.....
.....far more abrasion resistant, really no comparison.....
.....bottom hem is stretchy and very fitted so no air-flushing occurs from updrafts of wind.....
.....far more stretchy.....
.....3-layer laminate (Gore Windstopper Next-2-Skin Silkweight) actually stops most wind, whereas Windshirt's Mirage P-210R nylon doesn't do as well.....
.....conforming fitted shape doesn't blouse, which obscures harness gear loops and also occassionally causes mis-racking of biners onto bloused material rather than racking onto gear loops.....
.....brushed polyester lining slides on smoothly, whereas Marmot's DriClimeŽ P-275 lining notoriously snags on each and every hangnail, scab, and rough skin (actually, the Featherweight also snags some, but much less).....
.....3-layer laminate (Gore Windstopper Next-2-Skin Silkweight) protects against steady drizzle whereas the Marmot infamously wets out and soaks thru.....
.....compresses smaller size for packing, i carry my Featherweight Transition in my pant pocket sometimes.....
.....generally it's easier to find a lower sale price on the Featherweight ($95 retail) than the Windshirt ($100 retail).....
.....David Yount.
Mtn Hardwear Featherweight Transition Zip Top. This garment is superior to Marmot DriClime Windshirt in many ways.
.....9 oz instead of 14 oz.....
.....far more abrasion resistant, really no comparison.....
.....bottom hem is stretchy and very fitted so no air-flushing occurs from updrafts of wind.....
.....far more stretchy.....
.....3-layer laminate (Gore Windstopper Next-2-Skin Silkweight) actually stops most wind, whereas Windshirt's Mirage P-210R nylon doesn't do as well.....
.....conforming fitted shape doesn't blouse, which obscures harness gear loops and also occassionally causes mis-racking of biners onto bloused material rather than racking onto gear loops.....
.....brushed polyester lining slides on smoothly, whereas Marmot's DriClimeŽ P-275 lining notoriously snags on each and every hangnail, scab, and rough skin (actually, the Featherweight also snags some, but much less).....
.....3-layer laminate (Gore Windstopper Next-2-Skin Silkweight) protects against steady drizzle whereas the Marmot infamously wets out and soaks thru.....
.....compresses smaller size for packing, i carry my Featherweight Transition in my pant pocket sometimes.....
.....generally it's easier to find a lower sale price on the Featherweight ($95 retail) than the Windshirt ($100 retail).....
.....David Yount.
Zero Camming Devices
Average Rating : 3.86/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Review
Review by: david.yount, 2003-12-15
short hand:
Z#6 = Wild Country Zero #6 - largest size
A#1 = Colorado Custom Alien #1 0.33 Black
I prefer the Z's to the A's, I just like the way the Z's feel and work. I own Z#3 to Z#6 and A#1 to A#4. The Z's still feel crisp after years of use (not quite 2 years) whereas the A's feel mushy and kinda sluggish and sleepy.
Even after swishing around in hot water with some liquid dish soap, compressed air to dry, and teflon lube treatment on both A's and Z's, the A's never seem nearly as crisp and nice to use.
When it comes to cam head width the A's certainly are smaller, which is a good thing (in these smaller sizes).
When it comes to strength the A's certainly are stronger:
6kN: Z#3, Z#4
8kN: A#1
10kN: A#2, Z#5, Z#6
13kN: A#3, A#4, A#5
Size equivalency:
A#1 = Z#3 (8kn > 6kN)
A#2 = Z#4 (10kN >> 6kN)
A#3 = Z#5 (13kN > 10kN) = TCU#1
A#4 = Z#6 (13kN > 10kN) = TCU#2
Since their heads are designed differently, each will work best in some specific situations. When I'm at a nice stance and I'm fiddling with pro A#3 (TCU #1) and smaller I love having the Zeros as well as the necessary Aliens. Sometimes the Z's will give a truck placement when the A's won't give much security.
But I recognize that Z#1 and Z#2 are for aiding, not for catching lead falls. For that size I use Trango Sliding Nut #2 and #3 rated 8kN (almost twice as strong).
And Z#3 and Z#4 still aren't rated robustly (just 6kN).
All that understood, I far prefer my Z's to my A's, though I would recommend first a set of A's and then Z's as your second set.
Z#6 = Wild Country Zero #6 - largest size
A#1 = Colorado Custom Alien #1 0.33 Black
I prefer the Z's to the A's, I just like the way the Z's feel and work. I own Z#3 to Z#6 and A#1 to A#4. The Z's still feel crisp after years of use (not quite 2 years) whereas the A's feel mushy and kinda sluggish and sleepy.
Even after swishing around in hot water with some liquid dish soap, compressed air to dry, and teflon lube treatment on both A's and Z's, the A's never seem nearly as crisp and nice to use.
When it comes to cam head width the A's certainly are smaller, which is a good thing (in these smaller sizes).
When it comes to strength the A's certainly are stronger:
6kN: Z#3, Z#4
8kN: A#1
10kN: A#2, Z#5, Z#6
13kN: A#3, A#4, A#5
Size equivalency:
A#1 = Z#3 (8kn > 6kN)
A#2 = Z#4 (10kN >> 6kN)
A#3 = Z#5 (13kN > 10kN) = TCU#1
A#4 = Z#6 (13kN > 10kN) = TCU#2
Since their heads are designed differently, each will work best in some specific situations. When I'm at a nice stance and I'm fiddling with pro A#3 (TCU #1) and smaller I love having the Zeros as well as the necessary Aliens. Sometimes the Z's will give a truck placement when the A's won't give much security.
But I recognize that Z#1 and Z#2 are for aiding, not for catching lead falls. For that size I use Trango Sliding Nut #2 and #3 rated 8kN (almost twice as strong).
And Z#3 and Z#4 still aren't rated robustly (just 6kN).
All that understood, I far prefer my Z's to my A's, though I would recommend first a set of A's and then Z's as your second set.
Clog Cams (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.89/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Review
Review by: david.yount, 2003-12-15
I purchased many Clog cams when I researched and determined they were in fact Wild Country Technical Friends, the previous design and they were dirt cheap. On REI outlet they cost me between $22-$27 per cam (I got a pair of 2.0, pair of 2.5, and also 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5)
I would not have bought these if they weren't dirt cheap. If I were paying $42/cam then I would consider the current model of WC Techs which have several upgrades.
Since I place cams 70% retracted, more or less, and use full single-length runners or double-length runners, I am not concerned with my placements walking sufficiently far to enter a location in the crack where they would be near 0% retraction. The lack of milled cam stops does not bother me.
I prefer placing Black Diamond Camalots so I use the Clogs when I have time to place pro, and reach for the BD's when I need to fire in a piece quickly.
If you can find Clogs at a heavily discounted price I would far far recommend them over Rock Empire Robot cams.
I would not have bought these if they weren't dirt cheap. If I were paying $42/cam then I would consider the current model of WC Techs which have several upgrades.
Since I place cams 70% retracted, more or less, and use full single-length runners or double-length runners, I am not concerned with my placements walking sufficiently far to enter a location in the crack where they would be near 0% retraction. The lack of milled cam stops does not bother me.
I prefer placing Black Diamond Camalots so I use the Clogs when I have time to place pro, and reach for the BD's when I need to fire in a piece quickly.
If you can find Clogs at a heavily discounted price I would far far recommend them over Rock Empire Robot cams.