Gear : Reviews
Reviews by deadhorse (6)
Fat Bastard (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Crash PadsFat Bastard is the way to go.
Review by: deadhorse, 2008-06-24
This pad is really great. I've climbed with misty, bluewater, black diamond pads, and I think the metolius foam is probably the best. It's very durable, and once it's broken in it stays at that density. I love the way the closure actually keeps things in. The materials are terrific, My area has lots of close, tight passages where the pad scrapes and it has done just fine holding up. I bought this pad based ona shootout a while back, and I believe they were right. For the price it can't be beat. Prices not considered, it's still hard to beat, but a flashed pad might take it.
Solution Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating : 4.62/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcrosick...
Review by: deadhorse, 2007-11-17
I don't own these, but have worn them. As no one has yet reviewed them I felt the need to. First off, I had to downsize alot to get a tight fit (I wear like a 10 in 5.10, and I wore 41s, i think that's an 8?), but once you get the fit... oh my god. there is NO dead space. what's more impressive is that despite how obviously agressive they are, they don't contort your foot in an unnatural way at all, and are therefore VERY comfortable. I felt like i was cheating when I tried down-toe moves with these shoes. Make no mistake, these shoes are not for everyone, and really only people that have sick nasty footwork are going to be able to effectively use all that scarpa has put into these things. I would love to have these on a problem with heavy toe hooks,one toe one heel compression moves and shi. These shoes have THE best heel of any shoes i have ever put on. also, the MSRP of $170 is wrong. expect about $145.
10.5 mm Eiger Dynamic Rope Average Rating : 3.88/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropespretty good
Review by: deadhorse, 2007-05-24
I'm replacing it now after a substantial year worth, with lots of rock-drag TR routes. always a soft catch. more static elongation than i would prefer. fuzzes pretty easily. gets dirty. knots OK. provides tons of friction in BRD's. makes lowering light climbers/drag routes overly slow. never have to worry about not catching the fall though. i'm going DRY and thinner this time around.
Average Rating : 0.00/5
In:Versatile workhorse
Review by: deadhorse, 2007-03-13
This rope is nice, I've had it for about a year, and I'm going to have to buy a new one this summer, but it's seen ALOT of action. It feeds well, and has a very grippy sheath, always held my prussiks, ATC, gri gri well. stains easily and picks up dirt like whoa. Pretty soft catches though. It knots well but it doesn't handle exceptionally well clipping, although at this size you shouldn't expect that. Great value. I've had a few headaches over how easily it kinks/tangles, which is probably fueled by its lack of coating. Not the best abrasion resistance, but again, it doesn't have a coat so it shouldn't. Never let me down to hard.
PMI E-Z Bend Sport 11mm Static Rope (Manufacturer link) Average Rating : 3.67/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Static Ropesrope
Review by: deadhorse, 2007-02-10
I have about 200' of this, by the foot buy. It's nice and strong, and rather abrasion resistant. I have never broken a piece, and I think i would have if i was going to, because I used this in a tyrolean traverse over a gorge.
The only downside is that it's pretty stiff (i don't know if mine is EZ bend) and when i use it for fixed line applications, it doesn't handle great, but passably, in rappell/belay devices.
The only downside is that it's pretty stiff (i don't know if mine is EZ bend) and when i use it for fixed line applications, it doesn't handle great, but passably, in rappell/belay devices.