Gear : Reviews
Reviews by dormantgenius (2)
Force Climbing Shoe
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers
Favorite Climbing Shoe To Date
Review by: dormantgenius, 2010-03-09
I've bounced around a few brands (5.10, La Sportiva and Scarpa), and fell in love with this shoe the instant I tried it on. The fit is significantly different than velcro shoes of other brands - different in a way that fits my foot perfectly. I wear a size 9.5 street shoe, and bought these in a 41 (USM 8). Unlike other velcro shoes, I'm not left with a lot of extra height/space in the toes. The fit is snug, but not uncomfortable (I couldn't wear them all day though - I do take them off between most climbs).
The Vibram XS rubber on these sticks like no business. The sole is stiff, allowing you to toe and edge on small features with ease. My confidence in my footwork increased greatly, which I hadn't even realized until I went back to my La Sportiva Nago's while the Force's were being resoled.
The only potential downside I could see to this shoe is that the fabric over the toes tends to get a little dirty and worn out. I drag my feet pretty badly, and the wear is showing. I've used a little super glue in a few places to make sure the rubber and fabric stay connected, and that is worked perfectly. But I beat on these shoes pretty hard, and wear is to be expected when you drag your feet like I do.
I've been pushing the Scarpa Force shoe for several months now, and if you're looking for a velcro shoe and haven't been happy with the standard 5.10 and La Sportiva models you get at most outdoor/climbing stores, try to find a way to check out the Forces. Like I said - it's the best shoe I've climbed in to date.
The Vibram XS rubber on these sticks like no business. The sole is stiff, allowing you to toe and edge on small features with ease. My confidence in my footwork increased greatly, which I hadn't even realized until I went back to my La Sportiva Nago's while the Force's were being resoled.
The only potential downside I could see to this shoe is that the fabric over the toes tends to get a little dirty and worn out. I drag my feet pretty badly, and the wear is showing. I've used a little super glue in a few places to make sure the rubber and fabric stay connected, and that is worked perfectly. But I beat on these shoes pretty hard, and wear is to be expected when you drag your feet like I do.
I've been pushing the Scarpa Force shoe for several months now, and if you're looking for a velcro shoe and haven't been happy with the standard 5.10 and La Sportiva models you get at most outdoor/climbing stores, try to find a way to check out the Forces. Like I said - it's the best shoe I've climbed in to date.
Rock & Resole
Average Rating : 4.61/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Resolers
Super, Super Fast!
Review by: dormantgenius, 2010-03-09
I could not believe how fast Rock & Resole was with resoling my Scarpa Force's. I shipped them practically across the country (VA to CO) USPS Parcel Plus, and had them back in about a week, ready to go!
Not to mention they have some of the best prices around. Haven't gotten the shoes on the rock yet, but the work looks just as good, if not better, than other resoles I have had.
If you're looking for a place to send your shoes for resole, look no further than Rock & Resole.
-EDIT- Got them on the wall at the gym tonight, and one could argue they feel better than the original rubber! Had Rock & Resole put the XSV rubber on, and it's stiff and grippy - felt great on the wall.
Not to mention they have some of the best prices around. Haven't gotten the shoes on the rock yet, but the work looks just as good, if not better, than other resoles I have had.
If you're looking for a place to send your shoes for resole, look no further than Rock & Resole.
-EDIT- Got them on the wall at the gym tonight, and one could argue they feel better than the original rubber! Had Rock & Resole put the XSV rubber on, and it's stiff and grippy - felt great on the wall.
