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Reviews by freeskicolorado (7)

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Mens Feroce Climbing Shoe Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Great steep rock shoe 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: freeskicolorado, 2009-08-28

This is a great shoe for overhanging rock. If you can't or don't want to wear a severely downturned shoe due to discomfort or whatever, this is the ticket. The overall last is flat to slightly downturned, but there the sole has a noticeable downturn just at the big toe. This makes the shoe perform incredibly well when toed-in on tiny edges and pockets on overhanging terrain.The downsides? These are extremely painful to wear on slabs. Vertical rock is bearable. Keep these on steep stuff where they belong. Also, the curvature and stiffness of the sole makes it difficult to smear on sloping footholds, overhanging or not.The shoe does not stretch in length at all thanks to the generous rand coverage over the toes. Heel and toe hooking performance is excellent.The Vibram XS rubber is, IMO, better than either 5.10's Stealth or Evolv's Trax. It's stickier, but may be less durable.Perfect bouldering shoe, or sport climbing shoe for places like the Red River Gorge or Rumney (where the footholds tend to be positive).

Zephyr 10.3mm x 60m Dry Rope (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 2.60/5 Average Rating : 2.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Petzl Zephyr 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: freeskicolorado, 2008-09-17

I've been using this rope for about a year of sporadic use. I have probably 40-50 days on it, mixed between sport and trad leads, with partners occasionally toproping after my lead. It has held a bunch of small whippers, but nothing big.

I've experienced none of the durability problems others have complained about. The ends have not frayed, the sheath is still in great shape with just some minor fuzzing, and the core has no soft spots. I've experienced no more kinking problems than with any other rope I've used, and when I have, it's been my fault (running the rope through draws that weren't lined up correctly, etc.) The rope gives a nice soft catch and still has a nice feel to it.

My only complaint is the center mark and end markings are now pretty faint and hard to see. Other than that, this rope has treated me quite well.

Rocks Nuts Average Rating = 4.48/5 Average Rating : 4.48/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: freeskicolorado, 2005-08-19

As Iím still essentially a gumby and this is my first set of nuts, I canít really compare the WC Rocks to any other brands. But, I can review them based on my experience learning to place gear with them.I have the full set, #1-14. The first several times I went out with them, I was slightly disappointed because I was unable to find anywhere to place the biggest sizes. However, after having them for a couple months, Iíve found superb placements for every single size. Iíve found the #3-7 to be invaluable, and would highly recommend that anyone purchasing these get at least the #1-10 sizes, as the 4 largest sizes, while useful, are not useful as often.In terms of ease of placement and the quality of the placements themselves, I couldnít be happier. The shape is excellent. Virtually every time I find a spot that looks like it would be a good nut placement, I can find a Rock that matches the shape of the rock damn near perfectly. Granted, thereís always those funky offset/flaring spots or placements with irregularities and crystals that these donít really fit into well, but those type of placements are really the domain of specialty gear anyway. As far as straight up, solid nut placements go, WC Rocks work very well for me.Iíve never had any trouble cleaning Rocks either, though I have yet to take a lead fall on one. However I do often use three equalized Rocks in TR anchors and proceed to have several people fall and hangdog the heck out of the climb, and the nuts pretty much always clean by hand or with minor persuasion from a nut tool. Iíve never had one budge a millimeter from where I originally set it. Bottom line, if youíre looking for a baseline, workhorse set of nuts Ė these are an excellent choice. I'm always hesitant to give anything a 5, but since I can't find anything I don't like about these.... they get one.

ATC Belay/Rappel Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.31/5 Average Rating : 4.31/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: freeskicolorado, 2005-08-18

I think thereís a reason why ďATCĒ is used as the standard name for tube-style belay devices. Everything itís supposed to do, it does extremely well. Iíve used it on everything for thick, old, nasty gym ropes to thin single ropes and itís performed admirably. It provides plenty enough friction for everything Iíve done with it. It feeds smoothly both taking slack and paying out rope. The only thing that could be better that I can see is that it does not autoblock. But, itís not designed to, so thereís no reason to hold that against it.

Technical Friends Camming Devices Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: freeskicolorado, 2005-08-18

As a new trad leader, these were my first set of cams. Keep in mind that I'm writing this as a n00b. I've also had some limited experience with Metolius Power Cams and TCU's to compare with.I've found these cams to work very well for me. Though I have not taken a lead fall on one, I've placed them in TR anchors and yanked on them to kingdom come to test them, and have no doubts in their ability to stop a fall. Climbing in the Gunks, I deal mostly with horizontal placements, which these work great in. The action is consistently smooth, something I noticed was not true of all brands when shopping for cams. They are easy to place and clean. Furthermore, they are [i]light[/i] and reasonably priced, especially when you consider each one comes with a keynose biner. The anodizing makes it easy to quickly find the size you're looking for. I have 00-4 and have not felt like I needed an in between size.Cons: no loop, and no doubled sling. Occasionally, I find that the best placement would result in the clipping/extending biner would be loaded over an edge. Without a loop or a doubled sling, you have no choice but to find another placement or leave the biner in a compromised position in these situations. Also, in the smaller sizes (say, the smallest 3 or 4), I sometimes find the heads are too wide for the placements offered. This problem would be dependant upon where you climb; it may not be a problem at all in many areas.

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