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Reviews by healyje (3)


Ball Nutz Protection (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Balls - you have to know how to use them... 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: healyje, 2007-05-24


Typical comments by folks who really haven't put in the time to understand how they work and how to use them. Now the current versions on the market have some issues compared to the Lowe/Byrne versions or the originals, but they still basically function. Here is a thread on using them if you're interested in such a discussion...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1188682;search_string=lowe%20byrne%20;#1188682


Shunt Ascender (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Petzl Shunt 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: healyje, 2006-11-17


No better device for rapping with a load or when you are stopping on a rap to do work like replacing anchors. This is one of the least understood and under appreciated pieces of gear on the market today. The way to use it is to extend your rap device off your harness and attach the shunt to your belay loop with a locker. Then rap normally, but with your upper hand on the Shunt rather than on the rope and just ignore the rap device.


C.A.M.P. Ball Nuts (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: healyje, 2004-08-23


I disagree with the idea these are only for experience trad leaders, just be careful placing them to insure the ball is indeed engaged correctly; they are not something you want to just shove in a crack blind like a regular cam, but rather need to be placed more like a nut.

These units are fabulous in pretty much any orientation and I've taken and cleaned lots of leader falls with them and never had one pop or had any trouble cleaning them - quite the contrary, they come right out after multiple falls. I now have 10 of them and feel naked without at least a couple on my rack.

My main complaint with the Camp version compared with the Lowe is they have shortened the length from springbar to the tip which was a very bad decision.

One mod: on the smallest three I heat the lower plastic tubing real good and squash it flat as it is wider than the actual piece and is a hassle in thin cracks.