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Reviews by martinheynert (16)

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R320 Rock Climbing Harness - Mens (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Fixed

Quality issues and sweat 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2009-08-06


The idea is great, but...

1. The elastics lost their power very soon and partly ripped off. This is especially annoying at the leg loops, their fit became too loose.

2. The tie in loops show significant tear and wear after one year of occasional (1x every 2 weeks) use.

3. The warp webbing does not "breathe". Your sweat will be caught under it. When you get rid of the harness, you will feel wet in your back.


TC Pro Climbing Shoes Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Very interesting, high performance piece with comfort 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2009-08-06


Comfortable to wear for longer periods AND high performance on small edges AND good friction? Yes, you can get it all from this shoe. I was sceptic first but after 3 months of use, only outdoors, I am very satisfied. With 85 Kilogramms, a stiff sole is right for me. The 5mm-sole in combination with the P3-midsole gives even me excellent holding power on the smallest edges. But the new rubber is also very "grippy". I selected this shoe slightly smaller than a full "toes flat fit". My toes a little bit curled, not a lot, just so much to bring a light pressure to the toe point. With this fit, I can wear this shoe without problems for approximately one our nonstop.

The padding zones reduces pain while jamming in cracks and the high (full) coverage of the ankles give peace of mind in rough granit or sandstone cracks when horizontally and deep jamming.

Quality is superb. This shoe seems to be build for eternity (in terms of climbing shoes, of course). After some 3 months of 2 x/week outdoor use in different types of rock, mainly rough granite and sandstone, there are only marginal signs of wear and tear both on the upper leather and on the Vibram rubber.


Viper Climbing Shoe - Unisex (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Excellent fit, soft and sensible in the sole 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2008-11-16


The last fits my medium with, flat (low volume) foot very well. The elastic closure strap runs over the full width and a length of nearly 10 cm, creating a very reliable fit, better than the "Cobra" or the Anasazi Slipper.

After some hours of use, the sole becomes soft and sensible. If the shoe was selected tight enough, you will still have enough edging power. The shoe will NOT stretch a lot - less than 1/2 size. I use 10.5 UK in street shoes and have this Viper in 42.5. La Sportiva's sizes are made in EUR, so half sizes allow more fine tuning than UK oder US half sizes.

As many La Sportiva climbing shoes, this also has a prominent stitching (seam) insind the shoe just over the big toe, which can result in some pain or skin fissure after a longer time of wear or when heaving damp skin.


Shunt Mechanical Prusik (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Ascenders

Not the safest for self belay 1 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2008-03-16


No, the Shunt is not the safest for self belay under ALL conditions. See the user instructions. In overhanging terrain, the angle to get the lever working may be to steep (overhanging).

However, for the designed use as a mechanical prussik, as a backup for abseiling, this piece is perfect. When you need to rest for longer - when you clean your route from friends and rocks - this is far more comfortabel to release than the old style prussick.


Anasazi Verde Climbing Shoe - Mens (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.78/5 Average Rating : 4.78/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

They call it the world's best climbing shoe and that's it 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2007-09-03


This shoe is awesome, simply awesome! But take care, you MUST take this shoe VERY thight to get all out of it! The new Onys rubber is still the most sticky of all, still better than Vibram's new XS-Grip and far better than Boreal's FS-4. This is true as long as temperatures are "normal". In very hot weather or on very hot, sunbakened rock you might encounter the Onyx to start "gliding" earlier than harder rubbers like Vibram XS-Grip. Since the sole construction is thick, thicker than LaSportiva's Katana or Miura, it gives you a very stable hold on micro edges. The incredible sole alone would be a key argument to select this shoe.

But the upper, the last, is also a very good think. Well, it depends on the shape of your foot, but for me with a small, long and flat foot it fits snugly while still beeing acceptable on the toes. Well, for one hot spot over the knuckle on my big toe, I use a cushioned band aid for a pain free climbing day.

The new heel form is a lot better than before. The dead space behind the heel is gone and the overall fit has been improved. In sizes, this means to go 1/2 - 1 size (UK) down from the old rosyred model.

While I wear this shoe mostly in 9-1/2 UK, I have a second pair half a size bigger in 10 UK which I use with thin running socks on cold days. But be aware: Just this 1/2 UK-size makes a significant difference in the small edge ability.

I am so satisfied with this piece that I ordered a second 1/2 size (UK) bigger for winter use with thin (liner) socks. While the awesome edging power goes back only a little bit, the temperature range is extended a lot. The Stealth rubber still works fine with temperatures just above 0° Celsius.

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