Gear : Reviews
Reviews by michaelsanford (5)
Spatha Knife
Average Rating : 2.85/5
In: Gear: Training & Accessories
Fit
Review by: michaelsanford, 2008-06-07
For those of us who have 'biners onto which the knife won't fit: get inventive! I'll give you a hint–you have to slide it over the open gate (as with my BD non-locking oval).
But I am displeased with the fact that it doesn't lock very sturdily, open or closed, and that it can't be opened with one hand. Climbing, I think both of those things are pretty important.
It's far from being a total piece of junk though. I don't have any buyer's remorse yet, maybe I'll change my mind in a year, or if I need it to save my life and it fails.
Also anomalous: it's Petzl, yet "Made in USA" (and not "Fait en France", like everything else Petzl I own). But hey, I'm not complaining!
But I am displeased with the fact that it doesn't lock very sturdily, open or closed, and that it can't be opened with one hand. Climbing, I think both of those things are pretty important.
It's far from being a total piece of junk though. I don't have any buyer's remorse yet, maybe I'll change my mind in a year, or if I need it to save my life and it fails.
Also anomalous: it's Petzl, yet "Made in USA" (and not "Fait en France", like everything else Petzl I own). But hey, I'm not complaining!
ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.60/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Great, if heavy.
Review by: michaelsanford, 2008-06-05
I have been using this for a few months top-roping and have loved it. Curious about the "guide mode", I rigged it to a bolt hangars and tested it. It in fact did autoblock (on a 10mm rope) very well, and held me hanging in my harness without touching the braking bite at all. Of course, there's no fall factor, but still impressive for a passive device.
It does not auto-block (if, say, you're used to a gri-gri's auto-blocking) in regular belay mode, but the high-friction is great for arresting my friend of 200+ lbs without exceptional effort.
It's a little heavy compared to the last generation of tubular ATCs (but it's not like my dad's old magnesium allow equipment, so I won't complain).
It does not auto-block (if, say, you're used to a gri-gri's auto-blocking) in regular belay mode, but the high-friction is great for arresting my friend of 200+ lbs without exceptional effort.
It's a little heavy compared to the last generation of tubular ATCs (but it's not like my dad's old magnesium allow equipment, so I won't complain).
AmD Triact-Lock Carabiner
popular
Average Rating : 3.75/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners
Review
Review by: michaelsanford, 2006-03-29
The ball-lock is strange and like others I would get the screw-lock next time. I like the size and shape of it though.
Corax Climbing/Mountaineering Harness (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.45/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable
Review
Review by: michaelsanford, 2006-03-29
Ultra-comfortable and nicely adjustible it goes on and comes off in a flash; the non-double passthrough buckles make it quick to do up.
xcire noted it's missing a chalk bag loop, but there are two holes at the back of the rear gear loops which I think serve as a chalk bag sling (could be wrong though).
xcire noted it's missing a chalk bag loop, but there are two holes at the back of the rear gear loops which I think serve as a chalk bag sling (could be wrong though).
Grigri Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.24/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: michaelsanford, 2006-03-29
I love most Petzl products but I'm not a fan of the Gri-Gri. I only use it where a gym mandates it by policy. It is useful only when newbies are belaying, but even then, most newbie belayers have *huge* problems getting the tension on the cam right to lower someone. Slightly too much and you fall faster than the belayer's comfortable so they ease up and it jams.
Still, given the choice of giving an ATC or a Gri-Gri to someone I don't fully trust yet, it's going to be the Gri-Gri.
Still, given the choice of giving an ATC or a Gri-Gri to someone I don't fully trust yet, it's going to be the Gri-Gri.
