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Reviews by moeman (9)

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GTC Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: moeman, 2004-08-30


This is currently the only belay device I use-- there's no reason to use anything else. It feeds easily while belaying the leader and locks off solidly. Rapelling with it is very smooth- no bouncing here. It is lightweight, yet very solid and durable. The walls of the device are very thick, so it will take a long time for them to wear through. The rope bearing surface is wide and rounded, making it easy on your rope, unlike an ATC and other which create a sharp bend. In my opinion, it is better than the other auot-block devices on the market. It is much simpler to set up (as an autoblock) than a B-52, and it does not have the notorius "sharp edge" that the reverso has. Quite simply, a solid, versatile device that excels at everything from belaying the leader, bringing up the second in autoblock mode, to rapelling smoothly. Perhaps the best all-around belay device on the market.

Note: In order for this device to operate smoothly, you will need to use a round-stock biner, such as an Attache. I have tried using it with an OP Jake, and have found that it makes the GTC bind and lock up more frequently, and makes it nearly impossible to pull through a thicker rope in autoblock mode. Just use an Attache and these problems are solved.


Enduro Screwgate (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.09/5 Average Rating : 4.09/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: moeman, 2004-05-12


Simply the best value for a ultility locker on the market. Cheap, lightweight, smooth action, and always just the right size. Also, if you are willing to spend a little more $$$, look at the Positron lockers for a good utility locker with a keylock gate.


Pacific Dirtbag Quickdraw (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.19/5 Average Rating : 3.19/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Quickdraws

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: moeman, 2004-05-01


I've tried clipping these, and can be a bit tricky to clip when really stretched out due to a small gate opening. Sure they're cheap and are decent quality, but you can get a better biner for the same price. Trango Classic Wiregates come to mind. I'd recommend spending an extra dollar or two- you will be glad you did next time you have to make a difficult clip.


Capilene SW T-Shirt Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: moeman, 2004-04-16


Awesome shirt. I usually favor dirt cheap hobo clothes, but this thing is an exception. Very breathable, wicks well, very comfortable. Plus it doesn't pick up the stank as quickly when wearing it for multiple days w/o washing it. The only con o it is the price, but its worth it to buy one.


ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.46/5 Average Rating : 4.46/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: moeman, 2004-02-28


Very solid piece of gear. Unquestionably the best tube-style belay device on the market.

Pros: Very smooth feed. Solid lockoff. Great for ropes of any diameter You can use the low friction mode for 11mm ropes or when rapelling on a slab. High friction mode is great for anything else, from rapelling on a single skinny thread to effortlessly catching a big lead fall. Its very easy to lower someone. If you are using high friction mode and want less friction, you can flip the rope out of the V-slots if neccesary. It seems very durable. Durable, well designed keeper loop.

Cons: Expensive. Can't autoblock (so if you are doing much multipitch, get a reverso or a B-52 instead). Doesn't dissapate heat as well as some devices do.

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