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Reviews by ramylson (19)

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(Old-style) Power Cam (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.34/5 Average Rating : 4.34/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: ramylson, 2004-04-27


My initial purchase of cams, I have since added CCH Aliens to my rack as well. Unfortunately, the Metolius cams get used less and less as a result.
Overall, this is still a good piece. I've just found that holding power is a bit lacking, as well as placing in harder or smaller placements. The larger sizes are better though, being easier and more solid.
If I had to start over again, I would consider the larger sizes (black and above), but would look at Aliens for the smallers sizes.


Aliens popular Average Rating = 4.73/5 Average Rating : 4.73/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ramylson, 2004-04-27


I initially purchased Metolius FCU's, and was looking for an additional set of cams for smaller placements. Obviously, I eventually purchased a set of Aliens. Since then, I haven't looked back. These things are absolutely amazing. Especially in the smaller sizes, which is one of the reasons I've doubled on sizes blue through red. Honestly, since my purchase of Aliens, I very rarely take my Metolius cams, unless I know the climb is going to be taking a lot of larger sizes. The larger Aliens aren't terrible either, they're just not as good as the small sizes. They typically will turn a bit, making placements a tad bit harder. Still worth the purchase though. The entire size range (excluding black, as it's more of a aid piece) inspires confidence.
To give you an idea, my "local" crag consists of quartzite (the hardest stone, also one that has very minimal friction). Because of this, a lot of your cam placements are more like stoppers placements, where you have to make sure the cam lobes have contact with some fracture or imperfection on the stone. On several occations, I've had the Metolius cams pull right out, under a minor load (just pulling on the piece to "set" it). On the opposite end, I've had the Aliens set in a lot of "mental placements" (ie, shallow or flaring placement, that typically shouldn't hold a fall), and they've held no issues.
The Alien cams both place and hold better then the other options I've tried. I wouldn't have another rack without them..


Zero Camming Devices Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ramylson, 2004-04-27


I only purchased the largest two sizes of the Zeros, supplementing my smaller Alien cam sizes.
One first inspection, this is a decent cam. Construction appears excellent, with smooth action throughout. The trigger could definitely be a bit bigger, but still adequate. And, the cam head has a slightly larger size in compairison to Aliens, possibly causing issues in some smaller pockets or cracks. The stem is amazingly flexable though, adding confidence to horizontal placements.
After use, a lot of my initial impressions held true. The only real negative that showed itself is the size of the trigger, which can be a nusance in deep placements. Not only for the leader, but also the second who has to try and fish the placement out. Other then that, it's a solid piece that places well and is a good addition to any rack.


Curve Hex Average Rating = 4.47/5 Average Rating : 4.47/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ramylson, 2004-04-27


I only bought the larger sizes of these in order to supplement my larger cams, as well as giving me a larger piece for belays/top-rope sets. Never been a huge believer of hexs, typically following the line of thought that they're difficult to place. So far, I've been pleasantly surprised with these. Finding myself placing these on routes more and more. They're relatively easy to notch into place, and once there, the piece is typically beyond solid. Even better, it's easy to identify if it's a solid set or not. As things progress, I definitely see myself buying more sizes of these hexes, down into the mid-sized pieces.


Halfmoons (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: ramylson, 2004-04-26


First set of stoppers I've ever purchased, and they're adequate to get the job done. Stiff wire and decent shape for good placements. Although, as I've purchased more stoppers to complement my rack, these get used less and less. The size of the stoppers (more specifically, the tail of the stopper) aren't as user friendly as other stoppers on the market.
A good piece to add to your rack in an effort to fill in sizes.

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