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Reviews by ratmnerd (5)


Zealot (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.21/5 Average Rating : 3.21/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: ratmnerd, 2006-10-15


These were my second choice pair of shoe, as my first choice (Boreal Zen) was out of stock in my size and no more would be coming in.

For the type of climbing i'm now doing after relocating, they're fairly good. I sized mine pretty small, and the power they allow me to put on small basalt edges is impressive, created through the aggressive shape (slightly downturned toe). However, for where i planned to use them before relocating, they're not so good. I find the Gryptonite rubber pretty poor for smearing on the limestone slabs at castle hill, as it likes to slide, leaving a black streak on the rock. This may be partly due to the sizing, as i bought mine a half size too small, so there's less flex than there should be. However, my friend also has the same problems with hers on the same routes, and i don't believe there's enough flex in the midsole to smear effectively. The heel cup fits my foot beautifully though, making heelhooking wonderfully easy and comfortable.

OTHER ISUES I HAVE WITH THEM:
*the opening is too small for people with wide toes, like me, making it a struggle to get them on and off.

*the rubber hasn't worn particularly well, with less than 15 days climbing on them. I've found sportiva to wear better, as well as boreal and 5:10.

*the toe rand has come unglued partially on both of them (biggy). While this is currently mainly cosmetic, the edges generated by the unsticking of the rand are sufficiently large that i believe, should i attempt any major crack routes, the rand will come free. I've returned mine to the store where i bought them and they're being sent away for assessment.

*the velcro is losing some of its power, but is not necessary for the shoe's function, which works very well as a slipper without the straps done up.

*the toe profile is very narrow, which becomes painful very quickly. however, for people with narrower feet (unlike me) these would be a nice fit.

*the lining reduces stretch very well indeed, but unfortunately seems to have trapped sweat, dead skin, and later odor neutralising powder, making them greasy inside, and smelling bad (hence the powder)

OVERALL, the good edging ability and nice tight fit are more than somewhat let down by poor wear on the rubber and sloppy workmanship on the toe rand.


Curves (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ratmnerd, 2006-06-03


i love these! i bought sizes 2-6 as end of line for $10 NZ each, and they've been worth it completely. the curved shape generate a camming action when loaded, thus making them a very safe nut to place. with the larger sizes the ridges really help lock it in. these are absolutely bomber. excellent gear.


Aluminum Nuts (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.89/5 Average Rating : 3.89/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ratmnerd, 2006-06-03


these were excellent value for money, as i bought them direct online for $30. however, having received them, i have founs that their boxy shape can make finding decent placements quite hard at times. however, i supplements these with a few HB curve nuts, and found that the combined rack sits well. as all the others have said, the heads can slide, but i didn't find this to be much of a problem, as i can remove them if well stuck by pushing the cable thru then tugging on the higher loop thus formed (ie at the thicker end) to remove them. all up, a 4 simply because they are a little boxy for my liking.


Copperheads (Brass Nuts) (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ratmnerd, 2006-05-22


like far_east_climber, also bought these to supplement nuts, in my case the RE alunuts. i found them to fit well in small cracks, although the only time i took a fall on one it ripped every time (it was the first piece on a route, so fell three times on it). however, it's most likely that that was just because i placed it wrong, and because it was a mucky limestone crack. these are strong, light, and cheap (esp when bought off the RE website), and a great buy.


Express Mix Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ratmnerd, 2006-05-22


For the price ($20 NZ, about $14 US), these are great. However, at the RRP, i wouldn't be as happy. The main problem I've found, is the fact that when i took a fall on one of these draws, the hanger of the bolt made some gouges on the inside of the hanger 'biner, as well as the rock scraping a gouge into the outside of the biner. However, these work well, with a nice crisp feel, and securely close every time. Easy to change the biner gate orientation on the sling too. overall, a really good quickdraw, but would be even better if they were slightly harder.