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Reviews by renobdarb (6)

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Stinger Average Rating = 3.73/5 Average Rating : 3.73/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: renobdarb, 2003-11-12


This is a great shoe for steep, thin sport routes. The edging is very reliable as I found they hold better than my Aces on super-small flakes and crystals. I sized mine a full size down from my street shoe and they hurt like hell for the first few climbs, but they did stretch and now feel quite nice. These shoes really aren't for everyone, but Boreal shoes just fit my feet better than any other brand, so chances are if you have another pair of Boreals and like them, this will be a good pair for more advanced sport routes.


Miura Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.79/5 Average Rating : 4.79/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: renobdarb, 2003-09-01


As hinted in the previous review, these shoes are not for beginners. They're best suited for small, very technical edging on steep or overhanging rock which is typically more advanced climbing, and they perform extremely well in those situations. The rubber on them is very good and very sensitive, although it's a little difficult to smear with them, but that's not really what they're designed for anyhow. Size them AT LEAST one size smaller than your street size.


Ace popular Average Rating = 4.18/5 Average Rating : 4.18/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: renobdarb, 2003-08-31


These are probably the most comfortable shoe i've ever worn, and they do just about everything very well... The only reason I don't give them a "5" is because of the rubber... the Fusion 3 just doesn't measure up to Five Ten or even LaSportiva, but when there're re-soled with C4 these shoes are the bomb. They edge nicely and are phenominal in cracks. It is a board lasted shoe, so they're not as sensitive as some might like a climbing shoe to be, but they can be re-soled many more times than slip-lasted shoes, giving them more bang for your buck. I sized mine 1/2 size down from my street size, and they are nice and snug but not too tight.


Curve Hex Average Rating = 4.47/5 Average Rating : 4.47/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: renobdarb, 2003-06-01


I was a little skeptical when i first bought these... I wasn't sure what I would think of the curve design, I didn't know if I'd like the wire slings, and I thought they were a little steep in price... All that was put to rest the first time i used them... every single placement was bomb-proof, and the wire slings helped finding better placements a little deeper in cracks... You learn really fast not to place the smaller ones too deep, though, because they can be a pain to remove from thinner cracks...

Overall, I learned that these were worth every penny, as I found myself using them way more than my cams and nuts... I trust them completely, because in a good placement they feel like they could hold a whale...


Robot Microflex Cams (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: renobdarb, 2003-05-10


This would be a great starter rack for someone just getting into trad climbing. They are sold in the set of five Robots and/or a set of three Microbots, or the complete set of eight. They are well-built and economical for someone with a tight wallet looking for a whole set or just wanting fill out their existing rack. I've seen the whole set of 8 Robots/Microbots for as little as $200, and each individual cam goes for between $28-30. All cams have machined-in cam stops, and the action is smooth as silk. The coverage range isn't as good as other cams, and the larger sizes, specifically the #4 and #5, tend to walk a little. But beginners will love this set for the price, and they can fill them in with Camalots and TCU's later on down the road.

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