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Reviews by smearhound (11)

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Camalot C4 (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.77/5 Average Rating : 4.77/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: smearhound, 2005-01-17


Overall, the best cams I’ve ever used. The weight savings are a plus and the thumb loop makes it fit into my hand just right; it just feels incredibly solid. The action is smoother than a candle-lit Barry White at 2 am. The single stem and better trigger response allows the C4 to outshine Metolius Power Cams, the bomber feel makes them superior to WC Tech Friends. If anything, the unit inspires confidence. I still use Aliens for anything below the C4 .75 range, however, as I believe they are the cam of choice for small active pro.


Grigri Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.24/5 Average Rating : 4.24/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: smearhound, 2005-01-16


Excellent for a limited number of applications. The Grigri excells in toprope situations where the added safety of the autolock is a help and the loss of a dynamic belay shouldn't terribly effect a well-constructed toprope anchor. Any situation where you have to pay out cord is a hassle. Some use the Grigri for bringing up a second but the thing weighs a ton compared to standard belay devices and therefore mine always stays near the ground.


Jake Screw-Lok popular Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: smearhound, 2005-01-16


This beast is great for applications like cordelette master points where its size is an asset. I find it a bit too big for belaying, unless you’re using a munter. (Much lighter alternatives exist that work just as well and take up less rack space.) It’s heavy, too, so I don’t travel upwards with more than two.


Training for Climbing (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: smearhound, 2005-01-16


The best book for rock-climbing training, period. A major improvement on Hörst’s previous book, “Flash Training,” and more informative on the subject than the others out there. Sections on specific drills and exercises, mental training, training programs, sports training science and theory, nutrition, and even a small section on injuries are explained clearly. As for Hörst’s recommendations, the reader learns why these things work, not just how to integrate them into their training. I particularly like the way Hörst invites self-assessment and, with the guidance of the text, allows the reader to build a sound training program that addresses the reader’s weaknesses.

It should be noted that this book is probably most helpful to the sport climber, although most everything is applicable for bouldering and trad climbing. Alpine climbers will not glean as much from the text. Goddard and Neumann’s “Performance Rock Climbing” is a good supplement (also aimed at sport climbers), but go for this book first, and get stronger.


Contact Sling Dyneema 8mm - 30cm (1ft) popular Average Rating = 4.76/5 Average Rating : 4.76/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: smearhound, 2005-01-13


Having used the old-school nylon slings in the past, the prospect of entrusting my life to this skinny little piece of material was a bit unnerving at first. I quickly got over that when the extremely light weight of these slings won me over and they are just as strong as their predecessors. I don't go up with anything else than these terrific pieces.

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