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Reviews by tisar (9)

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Hydro EXP 6 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Backpacks: Hydration Packs

A perfect company on multi pitch 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tisar, 2007-01-12


Bought this buddy on a trip to Italy and had the chance to test it on a couple of multi pitch routes. The all over fit is perfect. It takes seconds after putting it on to totally forget there's something on your back. And due to the "Airstripes back system" you won't be reminded by a sweat-dripping back also. The expandable main compartment has enough space for everything you'll need on a daytrip and contains a couple of smaller pockets for keys, wallet and other stuff. The elastic mesh pocket in front takes the helmet - or, while climbing, your approach shoes (just be sure to secure them with a biner, I lost one of mine on Bucco D'Arrancio and had to hike back a mile barefoot...). The hydration system works perfectly. The bladder opens wide for easy filling and cleaning and the mouth piece is leak-proof. There are three sizes available (1,2,3 litres). What can I say? A perfect company on multi pitch.


Katana Velcro Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Wow! to the new XS-Grip 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tisar, 2007-01-12


After trashing two pairs of Miuras I got the Katana on sale. Those came with the new Vibram XS-Grip rubber. WOW! I heard something like 30% more stickyness and I really tend to believe it, at least it's a remarkable difference. The Katanas have been weapons before - now they're even better. Love'em.


Goblin (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tisar, 2006-03-27


Last week I had the chance to test Mammut’s new 2006 series. The Goblin would be the Velcro variant of the 'Challenge line', made for bouldering and hard edging. The Challenge line is completed with the laced Shogun and a slipper called Karma.I normally squeeze my poor feet into some totally undersized Miuras. The Goblins come close in terms of purpose as well as fit, so I'll stick to that comparison.First thing to recognize would be the high flexibility of the Goblin. It almost feels 'flabby', which is also due to a quite thin bottom layer of Vibram. Second was - good grieve - those are soooo comfortable. The toe box, though designed to curl the toes for maximum edging, is a little wider than the one of the Miuras. Which was a gift to my tortured toes!Now, let’s get to the wall: Compared to the Miuras, this shoes gives you hell of control. The thin sole and the overall flexibility lets your feet literally ‘read’ the structure (Braille that is!). Our gym provides structured walls with small ledges, pointy little knobs and slopers. What can I say, I loved those shoes! I was scared that the flexibility makes it for missing support, but the pre-tension keeps the feet in a stable, slightly curved position. So this fear was baseless.The only unknown in the game would be durability. An afternoon in the gym is not enough to say anything about how long they’d stand regular abuse and the thin sole doesn’t seem to be an advantage here. That’s why I gave them a 4.Climbingwise I consider them a true alternative to my beloved Miuras – as long as you are willing to trade a little bit of support and probably a lot of durability for more comfort and control.


Makak (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tisar, 2005-06-24


The inital purpose of this purchase was to have a second harness for beginners to climb with. Since it's a little lighter and less bulky than my Ocun Zipper, I use it regularly now. The two strands of the waistbelt do a good job to support the back and would probably be very comfortable - if just the padding would be a little thicker. So I refuse to recommend it for multi pitch climbs but for sporting it's a nice harness at a real good price.


Ultratop (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tisar, 2005-04-26


As all Ultratop biners those fellas just do their job pretty well. The keylock makes them easy to get off the harness/bolts and all over handling is superb. Two of them made their way to the bolt-end of quickdraws to substitute the non-locking version. I use them as security qds on bad bolt placements where a non-locker might come open. ... And... I just love their design (bought them in Blue/orange eloxation as given in the picture).

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