Gear : Reviews
Reviews by xclimber (16)
Matrix
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: xclimber, 2005-07-18
My experience is a little different than all_that_is_rock. When using the Matrix to belay topropes with my Sterling 9.7mm it kinks the rope severely. I switch to the Reverso and voila! Kinkless. I haven't given the Matrix a serious run on multi-pitch, but am very familiar with the Reverso and Reversino. I can't imagine it being much better. I'll reserve judgement until then. It does give better braking action on the 9.7 as the Reversino is too small, and the Reverso is a little too free...
Nanowire (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 2.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: xclimber, 2005-06-30
Perhaps it's premature to give this biner a two when I've only used it a couple of times. I think it's use will be restricted to clipping pro due to its small size which makes it rather clumsy to handle, AND it weighs 30g on my scale (which jives with the scale at the P.O.), not the 28 the mfg claims. I was ready to buy a stack of these for the top end of my draws, but went with the more versatile Trango Superfly. I predict an early demise for the nano's.
Pacific ISO Cold Forged Doval Carabiner (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.23/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Review
Review by: xclimber, 2005-06-30
Omega Pac does good work. This is yet another example of their excellent craftsmanship. However, as noted by others, there IS room for improvement. Conversely, I actually prefer that the biner rolls over easily. It facilitates racking pro. I carry them with the gate up and in, when re-racking at the belay I just roll them over and they are oriented (down and out) for a quick re-racking. However, for some reason I seem to have a problem with dropping these things. I suspect it has to do with the conformation of the basket; it's not very deep, almost ramp-like... Make sure that your gear loops/sling has cleared the gate before you release the biner.
Mountain Attack 50 (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: xclimber, 2005-02-11
Overall a very good climbing pack. My only complaints are that the release buckles on the shoulder straps lie too closely to the straps making it difficult to loosen, especially with a gloved hand. A scooped/scalloped one (like Black Diamond uses on the BeBee) would be a fantastic enhancement. The cinch strap for attaching a rope (or jacket, ets) between the spindrift collar and the top pocket (which is NOT removable unless you cut it off!) is VERY handy. It is removable unlike the top pocket. This is a true climber's pack unliske most which are designed for backpacking.
Wisp Wind Shirt (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: xclimber, 2005-01-29
Superlight and compact. Surprisingly tough. Be aware that the zippered neck opening is TOO SMALL to put on over a climbing helmet! No closure for interior stuff pocket, hence will "blossom" back out unless you rubberband it (lame...)
