We summitted on Huascaran (6768 m) in the morning on July 16, 2001 at 7,30 a.m.. We spent 5 days on the mountain.

Peru's highest peak, Huascaran, in the middle of this photo taken from a plane just over the Peruvian coastline!

Photoshop warning, please proceed.... A burned in Huascaran coming outta the haze from the rooftop of my hotel in Huarez in 1991. Shows how close the peak is away from the main climbers hub-Huarez. After trying to go up the west face route, we slept before Gargantua shy of about 1/2hrs walk so we slept under some big seracs near the end of the icefall and got pummeled throught the night of things going bump, then spraying debris onto us. Our tent was flat to our face for about 12 hours, just say we were in uttter horror. My face burned bad and peeled bad from the intensive heat radiating off the glacier. It's 2005 and I am still alive though!

Taking a nice rest before going up a few hundred feet of slabs on the west face of Huascaran just before Camp 1. That is Cordillera Negro behind, across the valley. I am about to step foot on the Cordillera Blanca. Do you like the 1980s green suit?

That is likely what my guide was cursing as I am switching from gloves to no gloves, pick placement to pick placement. But I was suffering from edema and horrified after sleeping through 12 hours of seracs crashing down around our tent.

I took this shot from the rooftop of our hostel in Huaraz around the beginning of August this year after a few days spent trekking in the Cordillera Blanca. Nothing too special, but I like the light.

Just a tribute shot to my beloved Palisade. This was taken at a lake at 4600 meters in the Cordillera Blanca, not far south of Huascaran. Surrounding this lake are four 6000 meter peaks, all of whose names I forget. Beautiful cold morning (my Nalgene froze solid in my tent overnight...that was a first for me), crisp clear air, and excellent morning sunlight. All in all a good place to be. Scanned from Kodak 400 Slide Film.

Again, I forget the name of the peaks surrounding this beautiful lake, which lies at about 4600 meters in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, not far south of Huascaran. A little different shot, this time with a couple of my friends for perspective. Kodak 400 Slide Film.

Milon and I reached the top of Huascaran Sur in alpine style on, August 20, 2001, 10am. Weather was not bad except very strong wind.

The massive west face of Huascaran Sur with the Shield pictured in the center of the photo. Photo by Peter Gram taken at Camp 1, approximately 17,000 feet above sea level.

The way through this mess is right of the rockface which leads up to Camp 3 known as Gargantua, a protected camp on the col, however, we slept amongst the seracs high up and right , due to certain situations. Photo taken in 1991. Major avalanche zone!-not recommended to sleep in this band of tetering calving blocks. The slightly shorter north summit is on the left.

Relaxing above the town of Moshu enroute to the west face of Huscaran, the highest mtn. in Peru. The right summit is about 100m higher at 6800+m, but before you get onto the glacier, you have to lug your pack and supplies up 5.2 granite slabs seen to the right of me.(1991)

Me in 1991 climbing up to 6000m on Huascaran. My Peru guide and i took a local dog up and put him in the packsack on the hard parts.

My Peru guide and our found local dog stand next to a circular crevasse on the massive icefield of Huascaran with the south peak in the back-the highest mountain in Peru.

Cordillera Blanca