Photos by timpanogos

ok, about enough, but like I said, the geometry/climb/intensity of zodiac just keep coming at you

Well if it is not super thin - it's waaaayyyy thick! #5 cam jumar anyone?

Yep, zodiac, more increable geometry - moon and sky

it just keeps coming at you - the geometry, the beauty - the thin aid

The incredible geometry just keeps coming at you - pitch after pitch - along with it's thhhhiiiinnnn placements this is top part of pitch before the nipple and the lower part of the nipple pitch.

Bring you cam hooks, hooks, hb brassies and small gear! First pitch - what a blast

YOSAR practiced some helicopter resuce most of the day - off Cathedral across the way p fun to watch - and a bit strange looking way down on a helicopter in flight.

Yes the wind blew - notice the 30' of the loose end of the rope - straigth up in the air!

this is about pitch 13 - 6 or 7 days into the climb what a geek!

Here lies a great partner! Plus have him explain the finer design points of the fish double ledge (ask him about the pee hole)

This is the top out view for Zodiac - very very nice stuff! What a fantastic climb in a wonderfull place.

I was hauling to the base of WSR, heard a roar turned around and saw a big rock slide on Cathedral. caught a few pictures of the after math.

I was hauling to the base of WSR, heard a roar turned around and saw a big rock slide on Cathedral. caught a few pictures of the after math.

This is just half of the liquid that we will need.

Complements (and special thanks to) Eric Kohl, who put these to gether and got them out last minute for us

Getting ready for the big trip, yea yea, I'm gonna die. And Looking forward to it

Ok put away the baby stuff and get out the man's pasting brush! had to cut this dude in half and make two

This is the baby sized brass wired tooth brush, somewhat useful for heading

Very desperate vertical crack - could not get both heads to set - this seemed like the most probable spot I thought it would do better than it did - could not get full body weight on it

Very desperate vertical crack - could not get both heads to set - this seemed like the most probable spot I thought it would do better than it did - could not get full body weight on it

Just like the #2 head, dead center behind the wire has hardly deformed and definatly not flowed into the rock

This poor head was getting beaten by now - I pounded the alumnum back towards the wire then tried it again. I think the first two simply poweded the granite until the shape was right - then it finally worked - I wonder if one should just shape the seam a little in the first place, leaving the head in better shape?

This is actually the 2nd time I'd set this same head in the same spot - it popped with easy weight the first time, It appeared like it would hold this time - it did not easly bounce brought it out Look at the seam around the head - this was virgin rock hard to work on cleaning this for awhile - I think part of the deal with the first two placements was simply the powdering of the rock until it had conformed to the head size

My question deals with the back of this head - notice that immediately behind the wire - it had not deformed, let a lone, flowed into the rock. And yet the wire failed before the placement

This head took a fairly aggressive aider bounce test just fine It failed with funkness with an hammer swing I would catagorize as "a firm tap" I was a bit surprised at how easy that wire popped.

After cleaning the #1 head - I pasted a #2 head in the same placement The dead head cleaned easily with small punch hitting upward from the bottom of the placement and prying outward after it was drove in a bit.

After getting on it with aiders and bouncing it a bit, I funkness tested. Dang #1 heads, not much more than the weight of the hammer falling did this

This placement lightly bounce tested fine with aiders.

Pictures of the cam that failed - couple of things to note: I had the spring inside - I will not do this again, always place spring outside. You can see there was not much cam contact on this guy - it appears to have twisted out on me. bad placement - that I did not get away with

Pictures of the cam that failed - couple of things to note: I had the spring inside - I will not do this again, always place spring outside. You can see there was not much cam contact on this guy - it appears to have twisted out on me. bad placement - that I did not get away with

Just did not feel good about things - must have been the 40' penji f2 that was to follow?

Time to retreat and think about this one - biggest aid fall (or any fall) I've taken yet. Look at the green tree at 11 o'clock from the no trespassing sign - the flat part of the top of this tree - underlines the area I have been climbing in the back ground. The young lady that took picture for me, snapped the shot right as I turned my arm to see best photo angle - It's road rashed from wrist to elbow - from the penji tumble

Retreating - heading home to think about this for awhile - biggest aid fall for me to date. Happens fast!

Yep, total deployment - I could not get that knot out.

Damn it happened fast. Getting into the crack is scary - on ramp, already 12' from anchor - very thin getting started - first piece was the smallest splitter two cam - it seemed solid - but was not the best placement, as I was to find out! got on 3rd steps and was working on setting a #5 brassy - was getting ready to give the brassy a bounch test, and was air bound - bounch test failed!

Ninth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct Final move, pulling from vertical onto the ramp

Eigth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Seventh in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Sixth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Fiveth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Fourth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Third in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Second in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

First is series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Pounded it in with the small end of hammer - made some X's with a blunt chisel - then a couple down the center - straight it blunt chisel blows to sink it solid into that narrow channel down the center of the scar.

The old bashie took one small tap on the top with a punch, and it fell out! Scrubbed it up with a wire brush and this is what it looked like.

This is the Peeler Direct Crack a few moves above the entry into the crack. Its about a 40' crack Nice eh?

Photo by Chad

My first succesful big wall - partnered with Pete Zabrok. Ready for another day - kind of.

Picture of Chad Adams photo by Pete Zabrok

This is an early morning shot of the South East face of the Black Peeler Buttress. My project area in preparation for El-Cap this May

photo by Chad

This is the space above the bashie - up to the fixed #2 copperhead that I cheater sticked to.

photo by Chad