Photos by dr.ed

Here is a four-panel shot of Mike leading Baby; my guide book has the date 6/29/80. It was our first route in the 'Gunks. Mike and I were at graduate school at the time. This photo-montage demonstrates some of the practices "back in the day". Note the sparse gear placements from a rack of stoppers and hexes and tied slings. Mike is wearing the shoe of the previous decade: EB's. We didn't have Prana so we just wore whatever... I'm pretty sure that the 11mm rope was rated for at least 3 falls(!). Seems to have been some discussion of Trad boasting somewhere in the General Forum lately. I'm not boasting, but this is the way we did it back then.

The Robson Hut seen on the SSW ridge looking down from "Little Robson", it is the light rectangle way down the ridge. This picture taken in 1984 on an attempt which was too late in the year (last week of August) after a storm had dumped much snow up high. We ascended the ridge to the cloud ceiling and listened and watched avalanche debris sliding down gullies from the South Face hidden above. This attempt is one of my best mountaineering memories. I would love to return and tick this summit off my list.

Gary and I on an early morning approach to Half Dome to do "Snake Dike". Here is Vernal Falls in the background with the early morning sunlight slanting down through the mist.

Sometime in December I usually get the urge to just bask in the sun, reptile style. A great place to do it is at Tollhouse Rock. These trips are always mellow, even with the shooting practice up above. Here Tom leads "Elephant Walk", one of the fun moderates on the rock.

A view of Half Dome and Sentinel Rock from the Wawona Tunnel. I drove up early that morning knowing the Valley was getting clobbered by a good winter storm. Shot many images... had a good time, oblivious the whole time of the drama occuring on El Capitan where a climber died in this storm the night before.

One early spring day found Gary, Steve and me down at Five and Dime cliff in glorious sunshine. We found Joel and Clint working Five and Dime, an overhanging thin-hands pitch that clocks in at 5.10d. Steve lead Keystone Corner and we set a toprope on Copper Penny (the corner to the left of Joel's line). What a fabulous day in The Valley.

In our 1984 trip we hit the "classics", this picture captured the perfect weather, mountains as far as you could see. The Gendarme is amazing and the thought of doing this in 1916 is mind-boggling. The Kain Route is thoroughly enjoying even at 5.6, and something good to do before you descend it from the summit.

The Bugaboos has always been a magical place for me. I was hooked while looking at the picture in the 2nd edition of "Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills" (1969, page 41). I've been there twice, once in 1984 and once in 1995, this picture is from the second time, both with Mike. The West Ridge is a great climb with little difficulty (5.4) and spectacular views and setting. This picture is taken as we reach the ridge up form the Pigeon-Howser col. In the background is the South side of the South Howser Spire and down into the Horse Thief Creek valley.

Steve leads the first pitch of the Harry Daley Route, 5.8, 2 pitches on Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite Valley. He is just through the slick section making his way up and left to the roof with the splitter hand crack in it (right of the dead tree). This is a wonderful route, very laid back. If you venture up there do Chouinard Crack (5.7) right next store. The Glacier Point Apron is the landing zone of much recent rockfall activity, be careful out there! This picture was taken in March 2002 by me, Dr.Ed aka Ed Hartouni.

Gary on his first trad lead, Pine Line, 5.7, El Capitan Southwest base. While this is one of the traditional "first Valley lead" climbs, the setting of the climb is spectacular with views across to the Cathedral Rocks and Spires, and the awesome view of the Capitan which appears to arch out over the base. This photo was taken by me Dr.Ed aka Ed Hartouni.