Photos by drake

The 1st bivy site on the Harvard route. There is a big spot but my two partners have that. It is bigger but more exposed to rock fall which was heavy when we arrived at 3pm. So I hung out and tried my feet & boot liners before dinner. Hard to believe in late April. Photo by Coley Gentzel

The Harvard route has around 34 pitches of snow, ice and rock. It's an Alaskan grade 5, 5.9, AI4, A2 with 3900' elevation gain from base camp to summit. The route is located to the right of the West Face Couloir route. We did the route in 3 1/2 days base camp to base camp. I classic line I believe will get more action in the future. This photo is of the approach to the "Steg". Much of the climbing is on the other side of the ridge.