Photos by jack_lasportiva

I went that day on the base of this very nice climb with the idea of climbing it with sandals and a bottle of beer for the picture but the guy that attempted to climb it before me took such a big wipper that I changed my plans and climb it a little more conservative way...

Orgasmotron (5.12b) is a nice short overhanging arete that I'm about to send. Big jugs, one crappy side pull, place your feet and you're up. My work is slowed down by a recuring tendinite.

This was on a Christmas day (2003), the first day of a 2 week trip in Southern France. I don't know the climber and the route. At least, I could say he was a german on a hard 5.12. The crag of Russan is amazing in the winter, it's like a natural oven.

This was another perfect day in Kamouraska. Denis was on a beautiful route on the arete of a big boulder. You can see the huge St-Laurence river in the background.

This is Marg in "À genoux ma belle". The crux is to get out of the roof. The moves to get to the crux are very easy but aesthetic.

This is Chuck on a nice crack. I like the colors, the body position and the facial expression.

This is me on 100% accroc, beautiful rock, short but very steep.

Rainy day, too much people on Techno, enough worked on wet Social Outcast, why not cool down in Dr No ! Unfortunatly, Mikael wasen't there to give beta...

This is Chuck trying to progress in Dr No by making funky useless moves !

This is Anne doing a try in the three stars five ten route.

I saw often pictures of climbers doing this move in Dr No (5.14a). I though it was very difficult. I was surprised to find it pretty easy. Of course, the next moves are a way harder and above my level.

At the end of our trip to Rumney, we made few tries in Dr No (5.14a). It's a way above my level, but thanks to Mike's beta, I was able to make several moves and have a lot of fun. One day I'll send it... with a lot of work.

This is a funny key hold in the route Orangahang. I call it the monster. When I give my beta, it sounds like : ok, re-bang with the left under the monster, then cross with the right in the mouth, yes ! Match, jam your left inside the mouth, clip ! Perfect ! Now, put your right thumb in the eye of the monster and undercling his palate ! It's done ! It works pretty well !

This is me in Peer Pressure. I wasn't happy about the way I did this route in my last trip to Rumney, this week-end, I was in perfect control. I like this route !

This is me at the beginning of Delayed stress syndrome after 6 days of climbing at Summersville Lake. I flashed this route 3 days earlier thinking it was Vaseline vision(5.12a/b), I found it very easy for a 5.12... in fact there was an error in the guide book, it's a 5.11a. But when did it back few days later with my tired body, it looked more like a 5.12 ! I took a good fall on it.

This is me at DC Memorial Boulder. Unfortunatly, I wasn't able to stick on this one. I managed later to make the dyno smoother and stick on the side pull.

This is me on a superb long, steep and impressive route. The knee bar at the beginning of the route just ripped off my knee !

This is how we chilled out at the end of a warm day at Summersville WV. We ended a perfect one week trip that way. Huge flakes, jugs and holes you can put your bare feet in ! The water level is very deep. No need for a spotter !

This Francois at the opening day of the crag Les Portes de L'Enfer. He was working on Pantocrator.

Sacha was trying to figure out how to get out of this roof. The crimp undercling is very small. This is finally not the way the first ascent was done.

Well, this is my new profile pic, it's not every day you can see your back... I did not know that there was so much muscles in there ! I have no excuse to not climb 5.13 ! I'll work on it... UPDATE June 15,2004 : As promised, I did Énergie Potentielle 5.13a, that's a beginning.

This is Mat after debugging the crux of Que Tal? (5.13a). This was the opening day of a new crag in the region of Portneuf. Thanks to JP for this great day.

Sacha was working hard and cleaning holds from fresh drilled bolt holes dust. Mat Fontaine solved the crux problem in the roof few minutes later.

This is me in Moby Dick just before the overhang, I like the contrast with the white rock and the angle. Thanks to Dan for taking the pic.

This is Francois clipping in the overhang of Moby Dick. I like the landscape, on the other side, this is the huge St-Lawrence River, almost the ocean. I'll try to find another angle to show you.

This is me clipping in the overhang of Moby Dick. The crux is at the exit of the roof. Nice route with big jugs. I like the witheness of the rock. Thanks to Dan for taking the picture.

Here is Frank going his way in a very beautiful route named BMW (5.12a). Orford is a great place, especially in this section of the Grand Mur and Les Surplombs.

This is Frank in Tin Man (5.12d). I posted it because I liked the details of the cliff and the way Frank is surfing in a sea of rock.

That's a cool pic taken my favorite radiologist. Yes, rock can hurt!

What a beautiful background ! What a beautiful area of Rumney. Frank introduced me to rock climbing and is still a source of experience.

This is me in the crux of Pierre Volante, the left hand on a good side pull, the right hand reach a crimp, the next step is to crank on this crimp to reach the liberating jug. Anne took the picture.

This is a real nice easy 5.12, just above the crux, there are jugs that implore : "please, crank on me !" This is what I was doing with pleasure !

This is me pulling out of one of the biggest roof in the area. The picture was taken by my girlfriend Anne Ostiguy. She was right under me (look at the quickdraws !). This route is a brutal 5.12a/b! So nice !