Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Gray Eagle : Escher's Way
PreviousEscher's Way - 5.10c
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
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October 2009
Rock (Trad)
PG13
7
Trad
800
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Description:
5.10c/d - Multi-pitch or do just first pitch, or first and second pitch. First and second pitches can be rapped with 70m.Descent Options:
If finish route atop Gray Eagle, rap the Great Depression with a 70m, or walk-off back of dome to descend the brushy gully between Gray and Red Eagle Domes.
Submitted by: setageus on 2010-03-09
Last Modified: 2013-05-09
Views: 929
Route ID: 103751
Most Recent Photo
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1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
FA
Suggested Pro: Double sets of cams from very thin to 3”, one 4" cam, set of nuts, many long slings.
-P1 (5.8) Climb crack.
-P2 (10c/10d) Climb crack out of belay and head left to cross flakes which connect to right facing corner and face above (face has two protection bolts).
-P3 (10c) Climb right leaning crack about 30’ then leftward climb over roof using long runners to avoid rope drag! Take diagonal finger traverse left across face to gain belay nook.
-P4 (10a/b) Head up flakes and cracks to right facing corner and obvious ramp up and left. Follow face to another right-facing crack above which curves rightward and up. Long slings again recommended.
-P5 Climb diagonally left out of belay through face with a protection bolt, then farther horizontally left to better knobs. W/in 25-30 feet from belay, start heading directly up where the climbing eases to big pro-able knobs. To prevent rope drag, good to belay at first good ledge with decent crack for natural gear.
-Last pitch is longer than one rope length, so either look for great belay where terrain eases with numerous chicken heads and eventually slab w/rarer cracks to pro, or simulclimb when rope goes taut.
-P1 (5.8) Climb crack.
-P2 (10c/10d) Climb crack out of belay and head left to cross flakes which connect to right facing corner and face above (face has two protection bolts).
-P3 (10c) Climb right leaning crack about 30’ then leftward climb over roof using long runners to avoid rope drag! Take diagonal finger traverse left across face to gain belay nook.
-P4 (10a/b) Head up flakes and cracks to right facing corner and obvious ramp up and left. Follow face to another right-facing crack above which curves rightward and up. Long slings again recommended.
-P5 Climb diagonally left out of belay through face with a protection bolt, then farther horizontally left to better knobs. W/in 25-30 feet from belay, start heading directly up where the climbing eases to big pro-able knobs. To prevent rope drag, good to belay at first good ledge with decent crack for natural gear.
-Last pitch is longer than one rope length, so either look for great belay where terrain eases with numerous chicken heads and eventually slab w/rarer cracks to pro, or simulclimb when rope goes taut.
Added: 2010-03-16
