Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Smith Rock : 01. Picnic Lunch Wall Area : Picnic Lunch Wall : Teddy Bear's Picnic
Teddy Bear's Picnic - 5.10b
Average Rating : 3.10 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Premier Sponsor:
Mark Whalan, '90
Rock (Sport)
G
2
1st pitch: 10 bolts; 2nd pitch: 10 bolts (optional 3rd belay)
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Description:
"This spooky face grows better with each ascent as knobs snap off on unsuspecting climbers. The friable nubbins on the first pitch are especially unnerving, but the better upper section offers some airy moves on good rock.1.) 5.10a - Romp up some large potholes and terrifying knobs to the anchors atop the first pitch of No Picnic.
2.) 5.10b - Step right and jet up some good rock past optional belay bolts to the highest anchor. Unfortunately, a massive loose block guards the final moves, so mantel lightly. Descend using two ropes."
-- from Alan Watts' 92 Falcon Guide
Descent Options:
Two-rope rappel from 2nd pitch, or 60m from 1st
Submitted by: NateDaTater on 2010-04-26
Last Modified: 2010-04-29
Views: 1293
Route ID: 104546
10 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 10 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: littlevahn on 2015-03-10
(View Climbing Log)
First Route at Smith
First route I ever did at Smith Rock, was a good introduciton.
Added: 2015-03-10
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: rhei on 2013-11-12
(View Climbing Log)
P2 Definitely Worth It
P1 mega-wacos at the start are straightforward. Upper part of the pitch involves multiple pebble-pinching moves. Well protected.
P2 is the money pitch. A sequence of thin moves on traverse ends with a couple of high steps and an interesting final balancey move at the top of an arete. Fantastic position throughout.
P2 is the money pitch. A sequence of thin moves on traverse ends with a couple of high steps and an interesting final balancey move at the top of an arete. Fantastic position throughout.
Added: 2013-11-12
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-10-03
(View Climbing Log)
only p1
I wished I had done the second pitch too.
P1 was great; you'll have to trust your feet a little more on this one compared to the honey pot neighbour.
P1 was great; you'll have to trust your feet a little more on this one compared to the honey pot neighbour.
Added: 2013-10-06
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Flash ascent by: rode8218 on 2012-05-27
(View Climbing Log)
good
did the first pitch. thin for sure. stepping up on tiny hold and trusting them is a mind trip.
Added: 2012-05-29
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: cdrysdale3 on 2007-06-22
(View Climbing Log)
n/a
Fun through the first few bolts and then the bad rock starts
Added: 2012-04-24