Routes : North America : United States : West Virginia : Roped Climbing : New River Gorge Region : New River & Tributaries : Bubba City : Kingfish : Ratz Holm
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Ratz Holm - 5.7
Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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1987, Gene Thompson, Wayne Sayre
Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
Standard rack, a broom, and some mortar.
60
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Description:
Per the Wolverine Press guide description: "Begin just left of Freeblast. Climb the corner until you can step left at some jugs to finish up a right facing corner." Note: The corner and traverse contain some very poor fragile sandy rock. Proceed with caution. The very featured wild sandstone in the corner is thinner than it looks from the ground. The topout is very dirty.Descent Options:
There was a rap station (webbing, rings) at the time of this posting. Whoever left the anchor thoughtfully attached a long handline from the tree where the station is located to the top of the climb for added safety when topping out on the slippery debris
Submitted by: mjwestla on 2010-05-31
Views: 710
Route ID: 105047
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Nice climb with some crappy rock
Nice moves made scary by weak crumbling rock! Makes a 5.7 a bit more exciting!
Added: 2012-09-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
meh - chossy!
Climbed this expecting something better but was disappointed when body weight/climbing caused lots of small bits to crumble off as I made my way up the corner. The very tempting wavy sandstone jugs were thinner than they appeared from the ground and I was very hesitant to use them once I reached them (plus my belayer was yelling at me for knocking chunks off the wall). After attempting to distribute my body weight as much as possible as I pulled around the traverse and hoping the jugs stayed put, the next section seemed to have marginally better rock quality. Shortly after there is a slightly tough to protect crux move over a bulge and later near the top is a lieback flake that felt a bit strenuous for the grade but maybe I was still freaked out from the crap rock. The top moves are licheny and the top area is slick with debris before you reach a good anchor tree.
I suggest a PG-13 due to the nasty rock quality near the bottom. It doesn't really inspire confidence at that first crux; the move isn't hard but you wouldn't be happy if the crucial holds blasted off mid-move.
I suggest a PG-13 due to the nasty rock quality near the bottom. It doesn't really inspire confidence at that first crux; the move isn't hard but you wouldn't be happy if the crucial holds blasted off mid-move.
Added: 2010-05-31
