Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Whistler, Pemberton, Lillooet : Nordic Rock : Nordic : Peanut Butter Not Jam
Peanut Butter Not Jam - 5.11c
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Sport)
G
1
7bolts Chain anchor and 1 belayer anchor bolt
28
|
|
Description:
So we discovered this hidden gem at Nordic Underneath the main wall. I have no idea who set it, but awesome. its about a 10ft roof with a ledge crack running the entire way out. Powerful upside down moves very bouldery. Sick moves love it. Always anchor the belayer. PS I don't know what they named it, so I called it Peanut Butter Not Jam because there isn't really any jamming in the crack. And don't keep the belayer too tight as the go around the roof. If the fall to tight the will swing into the corner. Some of my partners think its 5.11b but they have only red pointed it with draws already placed. so for a clean redpoint from starts I say 5.11CDescent Options:
Tricky Clean rap with a prusik. Or can clean with a lowering but clean second bolt before third. Second bolt spins just give it a tighten gets a lot of directional forces.
Submitted by: Boulamania on 2013-06-07
Last Modified: 2013-08-05
Views: 834
Route ID: 114021
Most Recent Photo
2 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Boulamania on 2013-08-01
(View Climbing Log)
Finally Redpointed
Felt way better on this route after another month of climbing but still takes tons of power almost didn't make it, clipped and climbed down to a rest point and shook out after turning the corner
Added: 2013-08-01
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.11c |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Hang Dog ascent by: Boulamania on 2013-06-07
(View Climbing Log)
Been a while
Forgot how much power is need for this route.
Added: 2013-06-07