Routes : North America : United States : New York : Adirondack park : Panther Gorge : Huge Scoop : Rumours of War
Rumours of War - 5.9
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Hunter Lombardi, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2015 July 11
Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
The route eats gear up to 4". Runout slab at top of P2.
405
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Description:
This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack). Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though you’ll want to make sure it hasn’t rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate! Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor. P1 5.5 - 180’ -- Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on the face). P2 Crux 5.9 - 75’ -- Climb crack to off-width then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge. P3 5.7 - 150’ -- Continue following crack to off-width chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top.Descent Options:
Descend to Twin Fracture Gully to the south. 4th class once in the gully.
Submitted by: mudrat on 2015-11-04
Views: 403
Route ID: 115922
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