Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff-Lake Louise : Stanley Headwall : Stanley Headwall : Nightmare on Wolf Street
PreviousNightmare on Wolf Street - WI6 M8
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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(Sport)
Ice
Mixed
PG13
5
Draws for 11 bolts, ice screws
580
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Description:
A wild route that packs alot of varied and intresting climbing in 175m, this great route is on the far left side of the Monsieur Hulot area and can be reached from the valley bottom or coming in from the right high shoulder, each has its own avy hazards and diffculties. The route begins with a steep warm up of M7+ that has logical climbing with thin feet and great tool placement. 2nd is a stright forward gr 5 pitch with a 20ft curtin off the belay ledge. Gives you a chance to get your bearings for the meat and potatos of pitch 3 and 4. Pitch 3 is found to be harder than 1 but graded at M7+ as well considering the misxed diffculties are hard but short lived. Somewhat diffcult to see holds take you up to the steep route with 2 big horizantal moves on good tools takes you to the steep ice with the bolt at the lip to the right of the last bolt (no webbing 2016) than tap up gently up the curtin to ice blobs and petlles to the steep piller. Pitch 4 is very steep ice with large petlles through out and very sporty climbing. Pitch 5 is the last steep piller.Descent Options:
Rap route on v-threads and bolts
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2016-01-16
Views: 677
Route ID: 116008
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | WI6 M8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
What a Route!!!
This is a wild route steep through out, the rock is bolted very well, the ice can be serious and hard with some thin sections detatched. A must do route, if not climbing fast at grade dont underestimate the time needed. I have skied to it everytime and out again however I did once decend down the slopes about 100m right of Nightmare, it requiered basicly a 70m rap or a 50m and 20m Im not sure if its any faster than doing the full traverse or not but we had very stable conditions.
Added: 2016-01-16
