Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : The Ghost : Ghost River Valley : South Ghost : The Real Big Drip
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The Real Big Drip - WI6 M8
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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(Sport)
Ice
Mixed
PG13
6
Bolts, ice screws
700
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Description:
When driving into the Ghost in winter the big rig you see right off the bat, steep, hard, safe approach for the most part but a strangely intimidating place.Descent Options:
Rap off v-threads and bolts
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2016-08-27
Views: 582
Route ID: 116137
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | WI6 M8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Hard exciting route
We did this route as a team of 3 turning into a long day, I have climbed the bottom half of this route twice, once with the ice 'low' and once high on the first pitch, it is much more enjoyable low at a much easier grade. There is plenty of talk of this or that flake being pulled off, when the ice is low on the first pitch ie a body length or so above the roof the first pitch (crux) is a sustained m8/m8+, when the ice is higher it is more m9, this route has been retro bolted in the last year or 2, the first pitch starts off moderate and than around bolt 6 or 7 you get the technical crux, bolt line is slightly left and crux move is right so seems a bit off, the rest of the pitch climbs steeply on decent holds, stepping over to the ice when it is low is very exciting as it is usually about 4ft away from the wall and seems slim compared to the size of everything, take care where your first screw is placed, there is a bolt much higher up incase ice is poor or is not in changing the grade and safety significantly, steep ice climbing to a large ice ledge with bolt belay probably buried in the ice.
If your hardcore and want the WI 7 experience start second pitch right and up, if like the rest of us WI 6-/+ is good enough head up left and climb fins passing odd bolt and possible ice roofs to 3rd pitch, strange bolt belay low right that is generally covered as well.
3rd pitch follows bolts steeply past roof on good holds to a very exciting traverse line on small but very positive pockets than up and behind ice to climb great feature to a hanging belay, be cautious of setting up belay as piller may be fractured (new bolt belay would be best). 4th pitch is steeping around piller and climbing to huge ledge above, bolt belay on right, P5 climbs for full rope length up Curtin and P6 finishes curtin and up rambly ice, you can go a few more pitchs and even take it to the ridge if you so desire but main climbing on first 5 pitchs.
This route is quite sustained but very well protected on the rock but do watch for loose rock on first pitch. 3rd pitch is very amazing and one of the best pitchs at that grade of m7+/8, 1st pitch is very long, not uncommon to have 20 draws or a couple more
If your hardcore and want the WI 7 experience start second pitch right and up, if like the rest of us WI 6-/+ is good enough head up left and climb fins passing odd bolt and possible ice roofs to 3rd pitch, strange bolt belay low right that is generally covered as well.
3rd pitch follows bolts steeply past roof on good holds to a very exciting traverse line on small but very positive pockets than up and behind ice to climb great feature to a hanging belay, be cautious of setting up belay as piller may be fractured (new bolt belay would be best). 4th pitch is steeping around piller and climbing to huge ledge above, bolt belay on right, P5 climbs for full rope length up Curtin and P6 finishes curtin and up rambly ice, you can go a few more pitchs and even take it to the ridge if you so desire but main climbing on first 5 pitchs.
This route is quite sustained but very well protected on the rock but do watch for loose rock on first pitch. 3rd pitch is very amazing and one of the best pitchs at that grade of m7+/8, 1st pitch is very long, not uncommon to have 20 draws or a couple more
Added: 2016-08-27
