Routes : North America : Canada : Ontario : Golden Horseshoe : Buffalo Crag : Main Wall : Rainy Day Woman
Previous
Rainy Day Woman - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Chas Yonge, Simon Carr
Rock
G
Moderate Nuts/Cams/Hexes
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Very blocky rock, that overhanges for most of the route. The foot holds at the bottom are EXTREMELY polished. The first half is layback after layback. This route is/was what all 5.9's in the area were judged by. VERY popular route.
Submitted by: krillen on 2006-03-04
Views: 2385
Route ID: 11761
Most Recent Photo
|
14 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 14 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
A classic for a reason...
This route is great, and has several storylines (trad): The tricky, committing, and pumpy start (some polish... not that bad), pulling through flakes mid-way, and the very run-out finish. Tempting to sling the big loose block or throw gear behind, but possibly psychological pro. Need your head on straight for this finish.
Added: 2014-05-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
on a rainy day of climbing
Crux mostly at the beginning. I managed to put a metolius TCU #1 at 10 ft from the ground and found a very narrow spot for a .3 BD cam just 1ft higher at the begin of the crux, i was fighting to unlock the moves but it was so polished that my hand just slipped and I fell down, the BD failed but my belayer was paying attention so he took rope the most he can and after having leaned his self back the metolius caught me just a few inches from the ground, (Nice catch Pietro!) after the fall on the next attempt found the trick, past the crux and the rest was just plain fun! I still remember the scary block a the end it looks like it s gonna be detached at any moment, and is huge.
Added: 2011-01-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
rainy day woman
very polished on the bottom!
Added: 2009-05-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Great route
As stated elsewhere the bottom is very polished.So belayer beware. Look for a tiny open book just big enough for your foot. There's still some texture for a smear.
Added: 2009-05-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Outstanding!
Highly recommended but be VERY careful near the bottom.
Be sure to look around when you reach the top - nice view.
Be sure to look around when you reach the top - nice view.
Added: 2007-06-16
