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Where Lizards Dare (5.9+) - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.58/5 Average Rating : 4.58 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 40
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)
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Rock (Trad)
G
thin finger sized gear. C3's, Aliens, and small stoppers.
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.57/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.71/5

Description:

From the belay ledge above Calypso III, climb the thin dihedral to a ledge below a roof. This is a sandbag at 5.9+, more like 10a. Excellent route.

Descent Options:

rap from chains

Submitted by: gripped on 2008-06-07
Views: 2239
Route ID: 14777

19 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 19 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ngolden02 on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars went up to the finger crack then downclimbed...

Hey remember for next time: red c4 w/ 2ft sling at base of finger crack then get up in there & go for it!!! It's only like 30ft from there.

Added: 2016-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johncotgrave on 2011-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars where lizards dare

legit 1970 5.9+

Added: 2012-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cuchulainn1856 on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

Best pitch I've done in the gorge. Ever. OLD SCHOOL 5.9. Glad they kept the grade, sandbag me!

Added: 2011-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climberclif on 2010-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JAGWire on 2010-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome sandbag route

I thought I was getting on a 9+, having nothing to go on but the guide book (We did not look at the route from the ground). This dihedral is solid 10d. I just did 'The Winter", 10d at the Gunks the week before and that was nowhere near as sustained as this route. Extremely difficult smears with lousy fingers do NOT a 9+ make.



Added: 2010-04-07

... Read all 19 ascent notes