Routes : North America : United States : California : Riverside County : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge : The Vampire
The Vampire - 5.11a popular
Average Rating : 4.82 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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Rock
Small nuts, and many cams to 3". Small hybrid aliens useful on P3.
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Description:
Yeah, that's right. The Vampire. One of Southern California's most famous hard routes. Originally 5.9 A3, it now goes free. FA by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick in 1959 with the FFA by John Long and others in 1973. Everyone does the direct start to the Bat Crack (10d), it's the natural and logical line. The mantle can be protected up and right with 1-3" gear and a long sling. 11a crimping starts P2 into moderate liebacking. For many folks the 10d/11a face/friction boulder problem (2 different solutions) on pitch 3 is the crux.
Submitted by: pbjosh on 2002-09-22
Views: 3401
Route ID: 14988
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25 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 25 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-05-12
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Greate route
Did this route with Lukasz. The crack is awesome, the slab is hard & obnoxious. Though easy, the finishing pitch is pretty cool (how often are you pulling overhangs on trad?). The pitch 3 crux seems run-out to me. Morning shade, afternoon sun. Had a good view of the unfortunate rockfall & aftermath on the Trough while on pitch 3.
Added: 2012-05-13
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Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-10-03
(View Climbing Log)
followed Lucas
got spanked on the first pitch crux, second pitch traverse (SWIIIING and a miss) and the third pitch face move. really, this climb is above me... but its fun to get drug up it :))
Had redemption afterwards on Sundance!
Had redemption afterwards on Sundance!
Added: 2011-10-03
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Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: lsandvos on 2011-07-16
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Vampire
Sent P1-P3.
Added: 2011-07-25
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Hang Dog ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-07-12
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Just did the 1st
pitch crack which is awesome until that friggin mantle. I have seen the mantle described as "energetic" but I think desperate is a more appropriate adjective. Knowing that this pitch is the tamest of them makes me anxious to connect with a slabmaster partner to try and bag the whole thing.
Added: 2011-07-12
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Hang Dog ascent by: ilikerock13 on 2010-09-12
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do it your way i did it mine!
http://pullharder.org/2010/09/11/anything-but-ordinary-full-moon-ascent-of-the-vampire/
Added: 2010-09-12