Routes : North America : United States : Alaska : Alaskan Range : Denali-Mt. McKinley : The East Buttress : 1963 Route
1963 Route -
Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Description:
APPROACH--2 miles from the 7,600 foot Northwest Fork of the Ruth Glacier landing strip to the 8,300 foot base.
TOTAL TIME--12 to 26 days
VERTICAL GAIN--12,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--The route meanders through seracs and avalanche prone slopes; short sections of up to 80 degree snow and ice up to the 11,000 foot level.
CAMPS--9,000; 11,100; 12,400; 13,700 (bergschrund); 14,100; 17,450 (on the Northeast Ridge). The conditions on this route are changeable over the course of years. In 1977 it was relatively safe (when I climbed it). Ten years later it was much more dangerous with much more hanging ice(when George Bell climbed it).
Submitted by: wdimpfl on 2005-07-20
Views: 787
Route ID: 15773
2 Ascents Recorded
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
Good route with nobodyon it. Lower half is low angle ice with a bergschrund crux to crest of East Buttress; upper half is easier, through Thayer Basin to Karsten's Ridge..
Added: 1981-05-30
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Ascent Note
This was probably the most memorable climb of my life.
Added: 1977-07-20
