Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : The Nose
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The Nose - 5.8 popular
Average Rating : 4.31 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (146)
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Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts, Bob Gillespie (1966)
Rock (Trad)
G
4
Trad
460
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Description:
Original Route on the wall. Highly Recommended! Two single move cruxes. Need 2 ropes to rap off of the fourth pitch. Pitch 1: 5.5, 110ft. Straight up slabs to a bolted belay ledge at the base of the right-angling quartz dike. Pitch 2: 5.8, 90ft. Move right off the belay up the quartz dike to another bolted belay. Pitch 3: 5.8, 80ft. Straight up and a little right to a belay station just below the Parking Lot. Pitch 4: 5.7, 180ft. Straight up the water groove above the Parking Lot.Descent Options:
Please do not rappel the route. A rappel line exists on the far right side of the Parking Lot.
Submitted by: joshlg on 2005-08-30
Last Modified: 2010-11-25
Views: 6648
Route ID: 15926
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146 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 146 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
finally got through the whole thing
We climbed to p2 on may6, then bailed due to rain. What a great climb, p3 is the best!
Added: 2017-05-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
cold, windy & rainy
Well we were the only ones there! Just did the first pitch- Sammy led & I followed (those eyebrows are scary).
Added: 2015-03-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Sweet rock
fun climbing. P1/P3
Added: 2014-12-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Finally got to the Parking Lot
Second time on The Nose and third on the Nose area. Finally had time and ropes to do the 3rd pitch of a route and rap back down. Great climb. Cruxes on 2nd two pitches are right at the beginning. 2nd pitch is easier to protect right of the belay stance, but harder to pull (at least for shorties like me). Excellent pro.
Added: 2014-06-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun, Easy Climb
Had to wait a couple of days for the weather to break in order to make the ascent. I lead all four pitches. The first pitch is not really worth mentioning. The wear on the rock makes the line easy to follow and the eyebrows provide ample protection. The move up to the quartz dike from the right side of the first pitch belay was probably the funnest move of the entire route. The rest of the second pitch is fairly uneventful. The third pitch runs slightly right from the belay to a set of heavy rings at the base of the Parking Lot. The fourth pitch follows the obvious, shallow water groove at the back of the Parking Lot. The traction is great, the holds large and plentiful, and the protection fairly easy to locate. I found the rock to be excellent, I don't really understand the low ratings. I am used to climbing on rock of poorer quality. I only used cams for protection.
Added: 2012-10-15
