Routes : Europe : Germany : Sachsen (Saxony) : Elbsandstein : Schrammsteine : Falkenstein : Südriß ('South Crack', VIIa)
PreviousSüdriß ('South Crack', VIIa) - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Oliver Perry-Smith, 1913
Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
2 Ringbolts. Take full rack of slings, but don't expect continuous protectability.
260
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Description:
Prominent crack splitting the right part of the South Face. First done by American Oliver Perry-Smith in the early 1900s. Ranges from hand to off-width. Usually done in three pitches. Belay at first ringbolt (left of crack), continue up crack to overhang and climb right-leaning ramp past 2nd ringbolt. Belay on ledge behind heart-shaped pillar. Traverse left back into the crack and follow it to top. There is a belay anchor on a platform to the left when you exit the chimney.
Submitted by: gbschmitt on 2008-07-11
Last Modified: 2008-09-03
Views: 1111
Route ID: 1684
Most Recent Photo
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2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | X |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
easier than it looks
Probably 10 a. an overhanging crack system first couple of moves are hardest and require a well placed knot or two. higher, there is a section of overhanging fists (mid 10) lined with broken dinner plate holds5.8. at the base is a plaque "Tobias 1963 to 2003". I wondered which of the broken dinner plates was Tobias this section is not protectable and a fall would probably be deadly. I climbed the fists crack.
we did about 40 routes over 3 weeks. this was the tamest crack.
we did about 40 routes over 3 weeks. this was the tamest crack.
Added: 2011-07-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | R |
Ascent Note
recommendet on a good day of mentality
Added: 1995-10-22
