Routes : North America : Canada : Yukon Territory : Mountaineering in the Yukon : The Cirque of the Unclimbables : Lotus Flower Tower : SE Face
SE Face - 5.10a

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Standard rack. Additional small wires recommended for pitches 11-13.
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Description:
18 pitches ranging from 5.7 to a possible 5.11. There is a very good topo here: http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/cirque/index.html
Submitted by: climbchick on 2002-05-24
Views: 1121
Route ID: 17586
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3 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Best Climb Ever!
After sitting out about 2 weeks of crappy weather and getting stormed off twice, we finally managed a one day ascent in marginal weather. We were at the top at 4 p.m. and took about 2.5 hours to rap off (with no ropes getting stuck). Simply an amazing line in an amazing setting. Crux overhang pitch is now rated 11a. We free climbed the whole thing.
Added: 2010-06-05
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Ascent Note
We prussick-climbed the first 3 dripping pitches, then it was wet up through the first pitch after the bivy ledge (simul climbed the chimneys). Then on to summit at 8:10. It started raining and sleeting on the descent that involved a lot of misery and a stuck rope. The next morning everything was covered in snow.
Amazing, but a lot of work in the conditions. I'd say it is a good bit harder than .10a Maybe .10+
Amazing, but a lot of work in the conditions. I'd say it is a good bit harder than .10a Maybe .10+
Added: 2005-07-19
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Ascent Note
2 days
Added: 2000-08-02