Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : Charlatan Needle : Fancy Free
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Fancy Free - 5.10b
Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Rock
Standard free climbing rack.
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Description:
A fantastic and beautiful line. A must do classic. Begin this climb on darker rock in the middle of the face. The right angling crack of the first pitch is very obvious. The first pitch ends on a small ledge to the right of the crack. The second pitch is an immaculate splitter finger and hand crack. The pitch ends at some bolts on your left. The third pitch is easy and short. It ends atop of the pillar that is the OW section of Spooky. The fourth pitch is really fun and heads right to the top.
Submitted by: rmiller on 2002-06-05
Views: 1928
Route ID: 18293
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20 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 20 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Intimidating crux
Linked P1-P2 (I led) with a 70m then moved over to finish on Spooky (Greg led).
First portion of P1 felt awkward. The crux near the top have a flared thin moves at the top. I was one move away from getting the on-sight, but ran out of stem an had to hang. Perhaps is best to climb P1 and P2 separate to conserve energy if climbing near your limit.
First portion of P1 felt awkward. The crux near the top have a flared thin moves at the top. I was one move away from getting the on-sight, but ran out of stem an had to hang. Perhaps is best to climb P1 and P2 separate to conserve energy if climbing near your limit.
Added: 2016-09-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
One of the absolute best
A sandbag at 10 B though.
Added: 2012-07-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Wooo
Great crack. First pitch is kind of lame; some loose and dirty crap. Took a healthy whip at the crux.
Last pitch is alpinish and awesome.
Last pitch is alpinish and awesome.
Added: 2011-08-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great intro to Needles Climbing
The finger crack was absolutely incredible! It's hard to find a crack like that at the grade...Sweet Climb!
Added: 2008-12-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fabulous!
Evry pitch is great. A must do.
Added: 2008-08-21
